Friday, August 31, 2018

Indoor plant needs light? Try this Plant Tray / Display with Light

Both my husband and I love plants, but there are a few places in the house that really don’t get enough light for them to thrive – so there was a bit of a brainwave. After picking up some cheap Fuku Bonsai, we found out that all they need is a few hours of visible spectrum light – which they can get from an LED lamp….and a hack was born! Everyone that sees it wants one – and they only take about 30 minutes to make one plant tray /display board at most.

Materials:
  • (1) JANSJÖ light with base
  • (1) FASCINERA chopping board
  • (6) Stick on cork feet to keep it up off the tabletop (and so you don’t have to countersink the screws).
  • (1) Fuku Bonsai from Aldi (or your local nursery)

How to make a plant tray / display board

Take the JANSJÖ out of the box. Throw away the base but keep the screws.

Drill some pilot holes and screw the base mounting screws through the bottom of the FASCINERA chopping board.


Related: DIY a pair of cute plant shelves


Add a few cork feet and you won’t have to countersink the screws at all. Plug it in, and that’s it.

One Plant Tray / Display board with Light


Related: IVAR plant nursery


We added a Fuku Bonsai from Aldi but you could add any small plant that needs a bit of daylight – a few hours a day will keep it nice and green and healthy even in a dim room – plus it looks pretty. 😊

~ by Carley and Aaron

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Thursday, August 30, 2018

Sound system console table from $69 IKEA dining table

This is not the easiest project but I hope it will be useful to some. This is a sound system console table made out of an affordable IKEA dining table.

IKEA item:
Tools required:
Sound system console table from $69 IKEA dining table

Ingo table | IKEA.com

Instruction for sound system console table

Slice the table top into two sections lengthwise. The width of the right section should be 15 inches and the left 13.5 inches.

Also, cut the sides and replicate all originals fittings on the cut portion to connect the table legs.

By the way, table legs are also cut (they’re shorter by 8 inches)

The table top left section is to be used as the bottom shelf.

Sound system console table from $69 IKEA dining table

Cut all the corners of the bottom shelf to fit with the legs.

Use steel corners to hold the shelf to the legs.

Sound system console table from $69 IKEA dining table

~ by Benoit


You may also like these INGO table hacks

Ingo desk

It’s amazing what you can do with the INGO table, paint, a few strips of 1×2 & 2×2, glue and dowels. See the hack.

The folding table Denise was using as her sewing table was too tall. She really wanted something at a more ergonomic height and found a sewing table hack with the INGO table. But she needed storage, so she tweaked it to fit. See the tutorial.

What do you do with a stained INGO table? Paint it, of course! Here’s how.


 

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Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Business in the Front, Party in the Back: Garage Edition.

I’ve owned my house for over five years now, and I have never—not once—parked a car in my garage. Honestly I often forget that it’s even a potential option, even though it’s right behind the house and I see it everyday. Both online and in real life, people persistently tend to refer to my garage as a “shed” or a “shack,” which for a while confused me. It has a garage door that faces the street and everything! But then I realized…that I use it as a shed-shack…and think of it as a shed-shack…and more than likely talk about it like a shed-shack while I continue to not utilize the ENTIRE SEPARATE BUILDING that I have ON MY VERY PROPERTY built SPECIFICALLY for the ultra-fancy purpose of sheltering THE THIRD MOST EXPENSIVE THING I OWN, behind my house and my debt, and MAYHAPS I should really start thinking of it as a garage?

Which really conflicts with my evident aspiration to also have a personal lumberyard, so it’s a tough call. I don’t know. We don’t need to dwell on it. We’re just talking about what the shed-shack is like right at this moment in time. To do that, let’s look at where we’ve been. Behold:

This is when I bought the house. The great thing about having such dire before photos is that I can never really feel that bad about how things stand today because, well…look! Evidently, there had been some kind of half-baked effort to extend the garage to accommodate a boat, which—speaking as a person who can barely maneuver my small utility trailer into my own driveway (or any kind of space, really)—sounds patently absurd. Clearly the project was abandoned before it had really gotten off the ground, though, leaving this…weed and trash pit?

Additionally, take note of the little door in that first image, because it becomes relevant shortly. OMG HANG ON, we’ll get there.

SO. When ALL THAT ASPHALT got removed from the backyard (prompting the insane summer of dirt-hauling and praying for the sweet relief of death), so did that cinderblock foundation, which left this charming view! There’s something about an old sloppy siding patch that I’m actually kind of fond of, even though I have NO patience for new sloppy patch jobs. I finally made the connection that the missing window on the back of the garage never actually left the premises, but rather got recycled as the old laundry room window! Which has now also been replaced, but anyway. What an odd choice.

Inside the garage, things had gotten a JUST A LITTLE crowded. Demo over at Bluestone Cottage had left me with piles and piles of wood trim to store until it gets cleaned up and re-installed. My first fencing project had left behind an extra panel. Upstairs kitchen demo supplied a kitchen’s worth of base cabinets and formica countertops, poor decisions granted me a bunch of falling-apart shutters that I intercepted at the dump, a twenty-dollar price tag on a cute art deco dresser had saddled me with…an extra dresser. And so on. You get the idea.

I’m not really sure when or exactly why somebody drywalled the whole interior of the garage, and in retrospect it might have been kind of nice…but it wasn’t in good condition, appeared moldy in some spots, and somewhat interfered with the plan to install new electric in here to run power tools, new exterior lighting, etc.

SO! I gutted all the drywall, exposing the unpainted backside of the shiplap siding and the studs. Rustic? Sure. Rustic.

A couple months before, my friends Kim and Scott over at Yellow Brick Home had put some super impressive work into their own detached garage, including adding these simple and strong wood brackets for storing excess lumber. Their garage is what garage dreams are made of. “Great!” I said. “I’ll do that, too!”

So I did that too.

Except I have a lot more wood than Kim and Scott do. And also a much smaller garage. These are two facts you might think I would have considered beforehand, but evidently I’m incapable of thinking this many steps ahead.

Simple brackets. I can build simple brackets. Here I am, building simple brackets as day turns to dusk. Brackets out of scrap wood to hold more scrap wood.

Turns out there is a real compatibility problem between me and these brackets. You also might think I would have foreseen this, but once again. Too many steps ahead. Lower those expectations PLEASE.

See, each one takes up a lot of space. The space that is a particular issue is that diagonal brace, because once your wood pile gets to the base of that diagonal brace, subsequent pieces of wood inch forward, causing your pile to be weird and uneven, and things to fall, and general mishap. The solution here is obviously to not have so much goddamned wood that the piles ever get higher than the bottom of the diagonal brace, but that’s obviously too much to ask of me at this moment in my life. Someday I will have used up a lot of this wood (I SWEAR I HAVE PLANS FOR ALMOST ALL OF IT PROBABLY I THINK) and this might not be an issue anymore. Even still, though, it’s not an especially space-efficient design.

What I SHOULD HAVE DONE (and later did do on one wall) was suck it up and buy these storage racks, because they’re a) made for this very purpose b) well-designed and very sturdy c) pretty macho. Unfortunately once I started building my simple brackets I couldn’t stop building my simple brackets.

Because I simply must tell you EVERYTHING, demo revealed another now-covered window on the other side of the garage, directly opposite the other window!

Siding is patched over on the exterior, and this window faces the fence that divides my property line from the neighbor’s. Maybe someday I’ll restore it but for now it’s kinda not hurting anybody.

SO. Back to the wall opposite the garage door. At this point there is lumber everywhere so I take a break to use a very small amount of it.

Remember when I said to take note of the skinny door on the side of the garage? It’s only 28″ wide—which is fine for just walking in and out, but try carrying a table saw through it. Or a long piece of wood. Or the lawnmower.

YES there’s a big garage door on the opposite end of the garage, but it’s outside of the fence, doesn’t have an electric opener, and stays locked for security…so using it means making sure the dog is in the house, opening the garage door from the inside, out onto the sidewalk with whatever the probably heavy thing is, back into the backyard through the gate, back into the garage to close it, back to the house to let the dog out who has now eaten something I forgot I left on the table…this was a pain.

Long ago I dazzled you with this beautiful SketchUp rendering of my backyard, which is mostly different than anything I’ve done or plan to do anymore, but adding doors to the back of the garage didn’t change! The idea is that it allows more light into the garage, and provides an easy, convenient, and LARGE access to bring big things in and out. In theory you could put a table saw or a planer in the middle of the garage, open up both sides, and feed a long board through. In practice, thusfar there has always been too much stuff for this concept to become a reality, but I HAVE DREAMS, OK?

So, I invited my friends over for a relaxing afternoon of light framing work and demolition. And by friends I mean Edwin and Edgar, the ride-or-die power duo I rope into pretty much everything I do. We built a header with hoarded lumber and supported it with hoarded jack and king studs. Evil plan in action!

Then we cut a big hole! Light streamed in! Angels sang!

Into the opening, we inserted this set of pre-hung french doors. Pre-hung doors are so simple! So drama-free! A few shims, a few screws, and viola! Doors!

Edgar, who is magic with a circular saw, ripped off the ends of the siding around the door to accommodate a new casing.

The hardest part of assembling the new cashing is, luckily, not very hard! A few passes on the table saw and I had a good replica of the drip cap that sits over the other doors and windows on the garage and parts of the house. Some lumber yards have this piece available, too.

Some more scrap wood and a hefty dose of Bondo later…looking pretty good, doors!

Speaking of Bondo: Bondo is a bit tricky and, I find, unreliable for exterior wood repairs, at least in this climate. Some people swear by it, some people won’t touch the stuff—I fall somewhere in the middle. I’ve had repairs fail after just one year on bare wood, although repairs where I’ve used at least 1-2 coats of primer on bare wood before applying Bondo have been fine—for now, at least. A much better product—although more expensive and time-consuming (it takes about a week to cure)— is Abatron WoodEpox. For what it’s worth, although not recommended, I’ve never seen a Bondo repair on interior painted woodwork fail—just outside. It can’t seem to take the expansion and contraction that occurs with exterior woodwork in the upstate NY climate.

SO. Way back when I said I was going to do this, and then a bit later did it, and then neglected to blog about it, there was comment drama about the doors. They are pine. They are made for interior, not exterior use. They are single pane and not particularly weatherproof. I chose them in large part because they were affordable at $377, and I figured worst case scenario, someday I’ll have to replace them into a now-existing standard-sized opening, which isn’t really such a big deal. I stand by it! They’ve been through 3 whole winters at this point and haven’t shifted or shown separation at joints, etc., and I think they should last many more years without issue.

SO. Current Status: TOO MUCH WOOD. In fairness there are many not-wood items like a few large tools, 2 spare cast iron sinks (as one does), various gardening and landscaping accoutrement, roofing shingles for a rainy day (get it?), window sash (pl.), extra corbels, uh…I don’t know, stuff. It’s an overcrowded disaster which I swear is not nearly as disorganized as it might appear. I have a LOT of interior finishing work coming up (THANK GOD. I AM SO TIRED OF FRAMING AND PLUMBING AND ELECTRIC AND INSULATION AND SIDING I COULD SCREAM. I AM SCREAMING.), so I’m kind of perversely excited to see how thinned out I can get this in the coming months. Also, intensely motivated to get this garage back under control because this is driving me nuts. At a certain point the strategy backfires because there’s too much to even see what you have, and fishing it out becomes a big hassle.

Additionally. You may note. That the last two are recent pictures. And I mentioned these doors were installed 3 years ago. There is a simple explanation for this. I never actually finished painting the doors. Because I just did not. The options were to finish painting the doors or do something other than finish painting the doors, and I have consistently chosen the latter option for multiple years now.

Also, they really need hardware. The lack of hardware is an issue.

TA-DA!!!


Business in the Front, Party in the Back: Garage Edition. published first on manhattan-nest.com

Hackers Help: Help with floating laundry station out of kitchen cabinets

IKEA items used:

SEKTION Kitchen system

Problem:

Has anyone hacked SEKTION base kitchen cabinets into a movable “floating” island before (not attached to the wall or floor)? I want to add a counter and storage next to my stackable washer and dryer in my laundry room. Per my planning, the base will be made up of one 24 x 24 and one 15 x 24 cabinet (total width 39″).

Help with floating laundry station out of kitchen cabinets

The issue is I can’t permanently attach the base cabinets to anything because the emergency floor drain (code requirement) is in the way. There would be enough room under the cabinets for water to flow into the drain. However, there is not enough room under the cabinet for the drain to be “in full view” and “accessible” for maintenance (also code). So whatever I do, it needs to be self-supporting and relatively easy to move for an inspector or contractor.

A couple of quick asides:
  • Please trust me when I say side by side washer and dryers with a counter and upper cabinets is not a good alternative.
  • I can’t attach base cabinets to the walls because the counter will cut across the water supply and electrical outlet boxes.
  • Yes, this is a very poorly designed room!

~ by Jesse K

***

Hi Jesse

I understand the frustration of having an awkward room.

While I have not seen a tutorial on a movable SEKTION base cabinet specifically, it can be freestanding. The kitchen island in my old apartment was freestanding and not fastened to the floor (though that is IKEA’s recommended step) or wall. It can certainly be pushed against the wall. But it was heavy and moving it was not a one person job.

Help with floating laundry station out of kitchen cabinetsI used 2 base cabinets (METOD in my case) and countertop to wrap them on 3 sides. A waterfall countertop may not be necessary for you. I used the shallower base cabinets (14 3/4″) to create the breakfast bar. For your purposes, you can use the full depth (24″).

You’ll need to get IKEA’s kitchen island assembly kit to make it happen. Take a look at the assembly instructions. I think you’ll pretty much understand how it’s done.

Omit Step 9, where the supports are fastened to the ground.

Help with floating laundry station out of kitchen cabinets

Adding heavy duty furniture sliders on the underside of the legs and supports may make it easier to move.

Hope that helps and good luck on the project.

Happy hacking,

Jules

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Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

From the very beginning of our master bedroom renovation, we wanted to create a built-in headboard at the back of our bed to provide more storage. The project had to be affordable and creative too! As the wall is around 3 m long, our queen size bed fit perfectly between two RAST chests of drawers (24 inches wide each). If your wall is longer, you still can create this headboard by adding drywall frameworks on each side of the headboard to meet the adjacent walls.

IKEA items used:
  • RAST chest of drawers x 2
Other materials and tools:
  • Wood or MDF flat trim (approx. 11 m long and 4 cm wide)
  • A wood board (approx. 30 cm wide, the length will depend on your bed’s width and the layout of the room)
  • 12 door knobs of your choice (I chose door knobs with a polished steel finish)
  • Wooden battens (to create the framework between the chests of drawers)
  • White satin paint
  • Wood glue
  • Wood filler
  • Wood screws
  • Drywall screws
  • Drywall plaster
  • Clamps (to hold the trim and drawers together while the glue dries)
  • A mitre box or an electric mitre saw (to cut the wood trims)
  • A sander

A trowel (to hide the drywall screws)

How to hack RAST chests of drawers to create a stylish built-in headboard:

1. Assemble the two RAST chests of drawers and put them in position so you can see what the headboard will look like, ensuring that your bed will fit in. In our room the fit was just perfect with a few centimeters either side of the bed, allowing us to open and close the drawers with ease when the duvet is in place.

Attach the chests of drawers to the wall and/or floor. Do not insert the plastic pieces that lock the drawers and the chests together, as you will need to remove the drawers later.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

2. It is time to create the drywall framework between the chests of drawers. Create a frame using wooden battens and wood screws, fixing them to the chests of drawers and the wall/floor. Be sure to make it strong.

Important: You should leave a space at the front corresponding to the drywall thickness, so the drywall will sit flush with the chests of drawers and not stick out. Ensure that everything is firmly attached. If you have a gap to the left and/or the right of the headboard, you may want to create another framework to meet the adjacent walls.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

3. Attach the drywall to the wood framework with drywall screws and fill the screw holes with drywall filler.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

4. You can sand the drywall when the filler is dry and paint it with the colour of your choice (knowing that most of the drywall will be hidden behind the bed).

5. Remove the drawers and prepare the wood trim: you will have to cut it at a 45° angle using a mitre box or an electric mitre saw. When all the trim is ready, glue it onto the front of the drawers, ensuring that the trim is flush with the edges.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

6. Use clamps to hold the trim and drawers together while the glue dries.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

7. When the glue is dry, fill the gaps between the trim with wood filler.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

8. When the wood filler is dry, sand the drawers using a sander or sandpaper until the surface is smooth. Vacuum the drawers to prepare them for painting.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

9. Paint the drawers and the visible parts of the chests of drawers in the colour of your choice. I chose a white satin paint so the headboard matches the rest of the room, but you may want to choose a bolder colour to make the headboard pop!

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

10. Attach the knobs (I bought two sets of 6 door knobs for just over £2 a set from a French discount store!).

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

11. You are almost done! You will now add the wood board to the headboard. The easiest way to proceed is to have the wood board cut at the store when you buy it. Take the measurements carefully and have it cut or cut it yourself. You will then need to attach it from the inside of the chests of drawers using a few wood screws. Make sure the screws won’t go all the way through!

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

12. Finally, sand and varnish the wood board, if necessary, to create a smooth finish, especially on the edges. Put the drawers back. You may need to apply some acrylic putty to fill the gaps between the chests of drawers and the drywall, and between the wood board and the wall.

Optional: I added white skirting to make it a real built-in piece of furniture, but you could also simply paint the bottom of the chests of drawers to match your existing skirting boards.

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

13. You can now enjoy your brand-new built-in headboard! This hack may seem time-consuming, but it is definitely worth it as it will add a chic accent to any room while being quite affordable (less than £100 for me). Although it may seem a bit low to sit in your bed and read a book, it is actually very comfortable if you add some pillows behind your neck or back 😊 We are so happy with it!

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

If you enjoyed this built-in headboard hack, feel free to subscribe to my new Instagram account (link: ) to see other Ikea hacks and the rest of our house renovation!😊 Any suggestions to improve this hack would be appreciated. Until next time!

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

Stylish and affordable built-in headboard with IKEA RAST drawers

~ by Mélanie

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Monday, August 27, 2018

How to Pinch Pleat Curtains aka IKEA RITVA luxe version

I wanted a custom and high end looking curtains, but didn’t want to spend a fortune on custom drapery. So with these beautiful IKEA RITVA woven cotton curtains, I have the same custom high-end look of pinch pleat curtains … without the price!

Materials:
How to Pinch Pleat Curtains using affordable IKEA curtains

before

How to Pinch Pleat Curtains using affordable IKEA curtains

after! Pinch pleat curtains

Instructions for pinch pleat curtains

Sew two panels together to create a wider panel.

Where the slits are for the rod pocket, that’s where you are going to sew each pleat (it’s 7 inches wide).

Take the rod pocket slots and create three pleats, take your threaded needle and create a stitch sewing 7-10 times.

Secure and then you’re going to stitch again two inches above the other.


Related: Create bold striped black and white RITVA curtains


There are five pleats per panel and since we sewed two panels together, we will make a total of ten pleats.

Once you’re done with the pleats, add the drapery hooks to the back of the panel, hang the panels and then measure the length of your curtain.

Next, remove the panels and iron on the tape to hem it to the right length.

And you’re done! 🙂

How to Pinch Pleat Curtains using affordable IKEA curtains


Related: How to add a trim to your RITVA curtains


The full tutorial for the IKEA pinch pleat curtain post is here or you can watch the video tutorial on Youtube.

~ by Rita Crane

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