Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Hackers Help: How to lengthen an IVAR Shelf?

I would like to use IVAR shelving to build a pantry around my fridge much like this:

20143_nkro11a_01_PE386348

Photo: IKEA.com

The problem is that my fridge is wider than the widest shelves by about 3 inches. I had thought about cutting two shelves and then putting them together with dowels and metal brackets, but I wonder if you all have any other ideas. Cheers!

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Hackers Help: How I can do something like that?

image

Would love to do something like this. Any ideas how I may be able to do so?

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Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Zhuzh my Ektorp!

Ikea items used: Ektorp armchair, Ektorp Abyn armchair cover (discontinued), Brattvag legs

It was time to upgrade my beloved Ektorp sofa range. I decided on the Stocksund, which I’m really pleased about, but I just couldn’t bear to part with my trusty old Ektorp armchair. I wanted to put it in my bedroom, but I live in a 1950s art deco cottage in Perth, so floor space is at a premium. The low line of the profile, coupled with the long skirt, made the chair seem far too big for the space. I wondered if I could hack it into something more suitable, while still retaining its Ektorp essence.

EKTORP with new legs

EKTORP with new legs and slipcover

I found a set of Brattvag legs for half price in the As-Is corner on our last visit to Ikea, and an idea began to form. I had an old Abyn chair cover that I was keeping as a spare, and I decided to see if I could hack it by stapling the skirt to the chair frame to show off the legs. I started by ironing it in situ, because it was a little wrinkled from storage. Usually, I don’t iron my covers after I replace them when they’ve been in the wash, but I do think it helped the cover to sit flush against the frame. It was quite easy, with a standard staple gun. I did find the corners a bit tricky, but I used a sharp pair of scissors to cut some of the fabric from the darts so that the corners would sit neatly against the frame. I used several rows of staples along each edge for strength as well as to fix the skirt and tuck it out of sight. It took about half an hour, but luckily I had my dog, Lucius, for company so I didn’t get lonely!

This is what I ended up with! I’m really pleased. It’s given the chair a new lease of life and it fits into the bedroom really well.

ikea ektorp armchair reupholstered

ikea ektorp armchair

~ Victoria Reynolds

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A hanging rope shelf

IKEA IVAR shelf turned into hanging rope shelf

IKEA items used: IVAR board

You need four boards with the following measurements for your shelf: 7 cm X 80 cm. Since I still have a few IVAR shelves lying around, I sawed my smaller boards from a single IVAR board. After sawing the boards I sanded them down slightly. In addition, you need 8 Meters of string or thin rope. You have to divide the rope into 4 X 2 Meter.

Let’s get started.

First, your mark with a pencil where you want to drill, two spots each at both ends of your boards. The bit top of your drill can’t be wider than your rope. My rope was as wide as a 4-bit. Now drill your holes.

Now take your rope and wrap some adhesive tape around the ends on one side. This way you can pull the rope much easier through the holes in your boards. First you must pull one rope almost completely through a hole and then you need to make a knot in the rope at the short end. This is now the bottom board of your shelf. Repeat this step with the other three holes of this board. The rest now is only pulling rope through holes and making knots. Whenever you reach a spot where you want a board, you must first make knots in all four ropes at the same height and then you pull the ropes through the holes of the board.

Finally, your knot the two ropes of every side together and mount the shelf on wall hooks. I would be very surprised if your boards were all perfectly level on your first attempt. I assembled my shelf a few times completely new and almost whimpered in despair, until I figured out that I did not have to start all over to correct the knots. Lay a water level on a board and push the board with your elbow against the wall while you adjust the knots at the right place. This way you work your way from board to board and when all of them are finally level, you beat your chest and shout as loud as you can: I AM A GOD! It’s worth to show your neighbors from time to time who is the boss!

A hanging rope shelf from IKEA IVAR shelves

A hanging rope shelf from IKEA IVAR shelves

See more on my blog.

~ Ronja Lotte

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Monday, August 29, 2016

KALLAX Drawer Conversion

IKEA items used:
KALLAX Drawer Insert
2 x KALLAX extra shelves
1 x pack UTRUSTA

So I don’t know if this is a hack, maybe more of a modification…

After sadly and reluctantly waving goodbye to our Bestä Bürs DVD cabinets, we needed somewhere we could put the little bits and pieces that lived in there alongside the DVD’s (keys, wallets etc). We didn’t want a full sized LEKMAN, and didn’t really like the thought of the red miniature versions: they didn’t really match our theme. We did like the KALLAX drawer inserts, but didn’t really want to fill a whole space with one as we wanted to keep it fairly symmetrical. So, I decided to modify the insert into two separate drawer units, so we could have one each side. The KALLAX is also backlit so we wanted to obscure as little light as possible. I’ve already modified the KALLAX (it’s a 2×2 and a 2×4 joined) to lose the double thickness where they join for a cleaner look, but that was done last year and I don’t have any photos of the process!

So, I assembled the drawers and inserted the runners and lower drawer into position. I put a pencil line on the insert at each end of the drawer. I then removed the insert and drawer and laid the insert out flat on the floor and took a straight edge and drew a line all the way across.

kdi_-_1

kdi_-_2

I grabbed a nice sharp wood saw (the insert itself is thin hardboard so I needed it to be sharp so minimal effort would be required to cut) and cut carefully along the line. When it was fully cut, I reinserted them to make sure they fit and the drawers ran in and out as they should. I then followed instructions and fixed the insert in place. I repositioned one screw slightly lower down so as not to hit the screw securing the other side.

kdi_-_3

In order to cover the open drawers, I had planned on heading to my local timber merchants and having two white chipboard shelves made, but when in IKEA I had a chat with a staff member and managed to get two shelves from a damaged KALLAX for free: lovely job! I then headed to my shed and found 8 ‘L’ shaped brackets and attached 4 to the underside of each shelf with simple self-tapping screws (make sure the ones screwing into the shelf are short enough to NOT push through).

kdi_-_4

kdi_-_5

kdi_-_6

kdi_-_7

With those in place it’s time to fit the UTRUSTA ‘push open’ fitments. The reason for this is because we have decided not to fit the supplied handles and go for a flush finish. So I measured the thickness of the drawer front and marked this on the unit and made sure it was central (this is where we’ll be pressing the drawer from to open it). I fit the push mechanism and adjusted the end so the drawer sat flush with the KALLAX when closed.

I also took a piece of new UPVC window trim from my shed and cut to size to stick along the underside front edge to block the light coming through the gap between the shelf and top of drawer front: it makes it tidier and gives it more a feel of ‘how it’s supposed to be’.

To fill the holes where the knobs should have gone, I used a product called ‘Colourfill’. It’s white in colour and dries hard and is usually used in kitchens (worktop and pelmet joins). Although they are still visible, it’s noticeably reduced, and at first glance you don’t really notice it.

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

KALLAX drawer inserts modified to fill half a cube

And there you have it. In order to open, you push the drawer in the middle and the same to close it. If I had an IKEA closer (it’s 120 miles away!) I’d purchase two packs of UTRUSTA and have them at each end of the drawer so you can push to open anywhere. But other than that, I’m happy with the ‘mod’!

~ Daniel Moore

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Decorative wall plate for NEST smart thermostat

I felt that the Nest thermostat looked kind of bare on the wall alone, and there is a trim plate that comes with it but I felt it had no visual style. So I was on a quest to find a wall plate for it but there is a very limited amount (very few) and I also found myself not liking the few styles out there for sale online.

I went to IKEA and purchased a mini bamboo cutting board called APTITLIG which I sliced in half with a table saw so I can cut a circle but I didn’t want the gap between the thermostat and the edge of the circle to expose the wall color from behind, so only the front half was circle sawed and the back half was left alone except for the mounting holes and a smaller center hole to run the wires through.

APTITLIG bamboo cutting board

APTITLIG bamboo cutting board

After cutting all the holes I used wood clue and clamps to join the 2 halves back together. Now the thermostat sits recessed in the board and the thermostat has a little more visual interest on the wall.

Bamboo decorative wall plate for Nest smart thermostat

Bamboo decorative wall plate for Nest smart thermostat

~ JT from HB

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Friday, August 26, 2016

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

IKEA items used: Numerar butcherblock and Karpalund underframe

I started off with a Numerar butcherblock table top which I purchased from IKEA about a year ago. It had been sitting in my garage ever since. The Numerar is not available anymore but you can purchase the Karlby. I wanted something large so I loved the size of the Numerar which is actually meant for a kitchen island. The dimensions are about 73 inches by 39 inches. This made it perfect for my kitchen since I wanted a large table with plenty of room for everyone.

IMG_3545

Now the reason the tabletop sat in my garage for so long was because I had no idea what base to get or build. I knew what I wanted it to look like but couldn’t find a base that wouldn’t break the bank. Then one happy day an IKEA catalog arrived on my doorstep and I saw the Karpalund underframe and knew my search was over.

Work began by first gathering what supplies I would need or thought I would need. I tested wood conditioner, application methods, finish colors, sanding methods and more all on the underside of my table. In the end all I needed to get this done was an orbital sander, foam brushes, 320 grit sandpaper, tack clothes, rags and Waterlox (to seal). And of course a table top and base.

Before I began any testing I needed to sand the factory finish off. This was an important step in that if you don’t sand it completely off the wood will never absorb the stain. Trust me on this since I found it out myself. Sand it with an orbital sander until you feel it is all off. Then sand it a bit more!

Once that was done I tested wood conditioner to see if I wanted to use it or not. I had done some research and was on the fence. In the end I think this is a personal preference. I liked the way the wood soaked up the stain without the wood conditioner. I wanted the grain in the wood to show. When I used the wood conditioner it seemed to not absorb as well. So no wood conditioner for me.

Next I tested stain colors. I had two that I was choosing between. I wanted the color of my table to be exactly what I imagined in my head. Dark, warm and the perfect shade of brown. Not orangey and not too dark to seem black. I stained two sections of the underside of my table with two coats of the stain I was testing and decided on Minwax Dark Walnut which is the stain on the bottom right square in the image below. You can see one coat on the left and two coats on the right. Please excuse my dirty garage floor. It became my workshop for about two weeks while I sanded, stained and sealed!

I was then ready to start on the actual table. I flipped it over (with some help since it weighs a ton!) and sanded down the entire top along with the four sides.

After sanding I wiped it off with a tack cloth. A couple times. I didn’t want any specks of wood stuck under the stain or finish. Tack clothes get this done. They are slightly tacky to the touch and will get every last bit of sawdust.

I then applied my first coat of stain. For all those that think staining butcherblock is a sin I was told I was nuts by my father in many different ways during the planning phase. His exact words when he first saw the dark yummy stain that had just been applied to the entire table were “You killed it.” Now that the table is done and in my kitchen he is on Team Stain Your Butcherblock A Dark Color since he recently told my sister she should do the exact same thing for her new desktop. True story.

IMG_3520

I had tested on the other side some different methods of doing this. Some sites suggested using a natural bristle brush. Others said a foam brush worked best. Still other recommended a sock wrapped in nylon. Of all three methods the foam brush was my favorite. It was inexpensive so I didn’t feel bad to dispose of it when I was done. I bought a couple for each coat of stain and sealer. The stain went on smooth and evenly. I don’t have any images of the process since I covered the table with stain as fast as possible. I then went back over the table and sides and wiped off any excess stain with a rag. I did sections at a time since I wanted the stain to absorb evenly.

I let the first layer dry about 4-6 hours and applied the second coat. The number of coats depends on how deep and rich you want your color. I wanted deep and warm so two coats got me that coverage and tone.

The next day I began applying Waterlox. I knew I wanted a great sealer that was food safe. I wasn’t using this as a cutting board or countertop. It is for our kitchen table. If a blueberry rolled off my kids’ plates I wanted to feel comfortable with them popping it in their mouth. I knew I would be applying a couple coats of Waterlox to get the finish I wanted. I used the gloss finish since I wanted to see the wood clearly. I had read in some different sources that using the satin finish creates a cloudy coat.

I applied the first coat using a foam brush. Waterlox is thin (think watery maple syrup) so you need to work fast and make sure there are no drips. I let the coat dry for 24 hours and then lightly sanded the entire table and sides with 320 grit sandpaper. This step was a little scary since I was sanding down a glossy and smooth surface. These were a couple bubbles which is where I focused my sanding. I had tested steel wool and although it does sand very lightly I did not like the small pieces of metal left behind. I didn’t want any of these pieces getting stuck under the following layer of Waterlox.

IMG_3549

IMG_6956

After sanding I wiped it all down with a tack cloth to remove the remnants. Once it was clean and ready I applied my second coat of Waterlox. The Waterlox spread and filled in everywhere and covered perfectly. No evidence whatsoever that I had sanded the layer underneath. Once you sand it turns a bit white. Once you add the next coat that white sheen disappear. I poured the Waterlox from the container each time into a glass cup to avoid bubbles. It is pretty stinky so make sure you are in a well ventilated space. The garage worked really well for me since I kept the garage door open to the outside while applying each coat.

I applied a total of 4 coats of Waterlox with the foam brush with a 24 hour drying time between each coat. After the fourth coat I lightly sanded again and applied a thinner coat using a clean rag. This last coat had no bubbles whatsoever since it was applied with the rag. This was my last coat. I let the tabletop sit and “cure” in the garage for a week. We then brought it upstairs and attached it to the base in the kitchen.

For about $250 total I was able to put together a table that I’ve seen online for up to $1500. It cleans up easily with just some soap and water. Everyday I can wipe it down to get back to that glossy surface that was so worth the time it took. This was a long-term project that is finally complete and enjoyed on a daily basis in this house!

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

Rustic Industrial butcher block table with metal base

~ Christina Katos

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Radiator Springs house bunkbed

IKEA items used: Kura bed, Dioder ledlight and Trofast as stairs

For our sons 3rd birthday we wanted to make a nice bed with enough space to play. He is crazy about Cars so we wanted a Radiator Springs theme :)

First I made a sketch of how I wanted the bunkbed to look and went shopping for items. My husband made a frame and closed it with wood. On top of the bed we made a frame and closed it with wood as well. Decorated with Route 66 sign and a station clock. I covered the ceiling with glow in the dark stars and moon from Etsy.

Assemble the KURA bed

Attach panels

Create the wall of the house

Create the wall of the house

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

IKEA KURA to DIY Radiator Springs House bunkbed

~ Loes Berends

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Thursday, August 25, 2016

Mini cactus garden in an IKEA BLOMSTER bowl

I just created a mini cactus garden with IKEA BLOMSTER bowl.

IKEA BLOMSTER bowl

Photo: IKEA.com

Just organize mini cactus pots in the BLOMSTER bowl and then cover the mini pots with white pebbles you can find in any garden center.

Water just once or twice a week and put in bright light but not in direct sun.

Enjoy your mini desert garden :-)

Mini cactus garden in an IKEA BLOMSTER bowl

~ Ileana

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Custom built-in fireplace surround with mantel

Ikea items used: LACK bookshelf, BESTÅ bookshelf, VIKA ANNEFORS desk leg, Pax door(s)

I really needed to build a fireplace surround for an electric fireplace. I looked online for all kinds of information on various surrounds, and ultimately fell in love with some concepts that were pre-built to be hung on the wall. The problem was that I wanted it to have a custom built-in appearance and also accommodate a TV. I happened to have an extra BESTÅ bookcase and some unused VIKA ANNEFORS table legs. I purchased some PAX doors (at least I think they are Pax) from the As-is section for $20 apiece and some trim and 2×4′s from the local big box hardware store.

photo 1-6

The base is the BESTÅ bookcase, atop which sits opposing sides of 1 VIKA ANNEFORS table leg. I used heavy-duty construction adhesive as well as some extra L brackets I had lying around to reinforce the whole structure. I cut a PAX door to lay on top and 2 pieces to frame out either side. The left side actually comes out so that I can get behind the fireplace to manipulate the cables and access the power supply. Since building code requires that a fireplace surround may not enclose an electric outlet, the back of the BESTÅ portion is left open so that the power outlet is technically not enclosed. A LACK shelf sits on top of everything. I reinforced it with some wooden bracket that I found in the As-is section for $3 and anchored it directly into a wooden stud.

photo-10

The key to this design is not so much the surround as it was the choice of electric fireplace. This particular unit is a “zero clearance design”, meaning that you can put flammable building materials up to the frame of the fireplace unit. Otherwise, I would have had to use other materials for the fireplace surround. The only thing that is required is 2″ of clearance above the air intake on the fireplace unit, and I have left it open more than 3″ above the fireplace unit.

Custom built-in fireplace surround with mantel

~ Augustine Nguyen

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