Friday, November 30, 2018

4 years later: How I re-hacked this IKEA children’s bunk bed

Having successfully built the “MYDAL kids loft bed with play area” hack in 2014 for my two sons it was time to rebuild the children’s bunk beds into something less bulky and with more storage space.

IKEA items used:
  • 1 MYDAL children’s bunk bed
  • 4 STUVA frames (60x50x64) with doors/drawers
  • 2 JANSJÖ clamp spotlights (optional)
  • 2 EKET wall-mounted shelving units (optional)
Other materials:
  • MDF-boards
  • Wooden beams
  • Paint

Reworking the old MYDAL children’s bunk bed into new

The challenge was to recycle some of the contents of the old hack. So I removed the MDF boards and one of the MYDAL bunk beds. I used the remaining bed for the new hack. Of course, the hack can also be built from scratch.

Inspired by a photograph on Pinterest I placed the STUVA frames in the form of an “L” against the corner of the room and increased stability by attaching some wooden beams to their backsides and the room’s wall.


Related: See more hacks for IKEA children’s beds


Then, I attached an MDF board on top, cut off the legs of the MYDAL bunk bed and put it on top.

Now the bed itself was covered with MDF boards again and painted white. For extra stability, I screwed the MDF-boards on the walls where possible.

The gap between the bed and the wall was also closed with a piece of MDF and serves as a shelf for teddy bears and books.


Related: A clever addition turns the KURA bunk bed into a storage bunk bed



Related: Make an indoor kids playhouse and bunk bed


The STUVA frames were closed with doors and drawers, except for the one under the ladder which is used as a shelf.

~ by Philip

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4 years later: How I re-hacked this IKEA children’s bunk bed published first on www.ikeahackers.net

Thursday, November 29, 2018

Transform your TV dinners with this uplifting hack

When I started to live on my own I bought the MELLTORP square table. First it was a dining table. Later, when I could afford more space, I got another dining table and I changed the MELLTORP into a coffee table by cutting down the legs to sofa height. But eating from that table or working was quite uncomfortable with the body hunched over. So I decided to hack it into a lift top coffee table. I call it my Magic MELLTORP.

MELLTORP dining table

MELLTORP | IKEA.com

Material:
  • 4 aluminium bars cut down from one piece
  • 8 metal screws (as axles)
  • 16 washers for the screws and nuts
  • 16 nuts to fix the bars and as bolt counters
  • 4 brackets to fix the bars to the back of the plate

Instructions for the lift top coffee table hack

1. I took off the plate by turning out the screws that were holding it.

2. Next, drilled four holes into the metal frame of the table.

3. And put a thin screw with washers and nuts through the holes.

4. Then, added four bars of aluminium to the screws and fitted them with the nuts. The fixing-point of the bars on the frame and on the back of the plate as well as the length of the braces depend upon how high you want the table in the end. I experimented with it (you can see the holes of failed attempts in the picture 🙂 )

Lift top coffee table IKEA MELLTORP Hack

Lift top coffee table IKEA MELLTORP Hack

5. The position of the brackets to fix the plate to the bars could be easily found by turning the table upside down.

Lift top coffee table IKEA MELLTORP HackLift top coffee table IKEA MELLTORP Hack

Now the top of the table can be pulled up and towards one side, giving comfort and safety for the sofa from smudges caused by the snacking in the evening. 🙂

~ by Stephan


Shop for lift top hinges and hardware


You may also like these other lift top coffee table hacks

#1 Lift top coffee table, HEMNES version

lift top coffee table IKEA HEMNES

Adam added a lift-top functionality to his HEMNES coffee table to raise it up and move it closer when seated at the sofa. It’s useful for eating or working at the coffee table. See the tutorial.

#2 Arcade table with lift top

arcade table with lift top

Inspired by a similar hacks, DB spent 10 months taking a used IKEA Ramvik coffee table and making it into the functioning arcade table with an added lift top function. See the hack.


The post Transform your TV dinners with this uplifting hack appeared first on IKEA Hackers.


Transform your TV dinners with this uplifting hack published first on www.ikeahackers.net

Wednesday, November 28, 2018

The Duplex Is Tiled! Here’s What We Loved & What We Wouldn’t Do Again

Tiling was one of the most daunting tasks on our duplex to-do list this year (four bathrooms! two mudrooms! and there are still two backsplashes on the list) so it’s a HUGE relief to say that all of those floors and showers and tub surrounds are officially done (well, like 95% done – more on that later). So today we wanted to show you how they’ve all turned out and share some of the lessons we learned along the way, including which tiles we’d buy again in a heartbeat… and the ones we’d think twice about attempting ever again.

floor tile | wall tile | shower floor | grout: frost | door: SW Oyster Bay

Listeners of last week’s podcast know that after two long weekends spent tiling the duplex, we completed all six of the floors ourselves (two mudrooms and four bathrooms!) but we decided to hire out the four remaining shower surrounds in order to keep things on schedule. What would’ve taken me and Sherry several more weekends to accomplish was knocked out by our contractor’s crew in less than a week – which means we got to spend all that time we saved doing actual work that we get paid for, so it worked out well.

For each of the four shower/tub surrounds we chose white subway tile for the walls (simple, classic, affordable, and it’s a tile that lets the more interesting floor tile in each room be the star). So this post is mostly going to focus on the floors in each space since we’ve covered our adventures in subway tile here and here already.

floor tile | wall tile | shower floor | grout: warm gray | door: SW White Truffle

But as for the subway tile we used, we went with this affordable 3 x 6″ subway tile installed in a standard running bond pattern (the same stuff we used and loved on the beach house’s kitchen backsplash). And the two master showers got this white herringbone on the floor, which added a hint of interest to that surface without being too crazy busy.

We showed you all of the floor tile selections in this post about how we chose our tile, cabinets, and paint colors. But we did make one last minute change to the plan from that post: we swapped the two master bathroom tile choices (seen in the two photos above) because the marble-esque tile ended up looking better with the blue-green doors than the pink ones. As much planning as you do beforehand, there’s really nothing like seeing the tile in the space next to the items that are in there, hence that last minute swap.

We mentioned in that same post that we limited ourselves to larger tiles with interesting patterns, rather than smaller mosaics because we knew it would help the process go faster (we LOVE our pink house master bathroom floor, but it took us forever and a day). But even within that larger-tile parameter, we learned that some tiles were faster, easier, and more foolproof to lay than others. We LOVE how all of them turned out in the end, but there are some that gave us more difficulty (and took much longer to install) than others. So if speed and ease are an important factor when it comes to picking tile, or if you’re a newbie tiler and want to choose something that’s simple and straightforward… this post should help.

So let’s start with the easiest ones:

The Square Patterned Tiles

floor tile | grout: warm gray | door: SW White Truffle

The blue patterned tiles that we laid in the bathrooms on the left side were the fastest and the most straightforward to install. Why? Because (1) they were square and (2) the pattern was symmetrical on all sides, meaning you could put the tile down in any orientation and it would line up. The combination of those two factors made it much easier to lay out, cut, and install because we were always working with right angles (we’ll talk about hex tile in a moment!). And because the pattern was the same on every edge, we had less waste because we could use both sides of a cut tile again in another smaller spot (like around any edge).

floor tile | grout: warm gray | door: SW White Truffle | wall: SW Spare White

The size of these tiles was also really easy to work with. The master bath tile (above) was around an 8 x 8″ square while the hall bath tile (below) was 9 x 9″, so they weren’t heavy or unruly like larger tiles can be, but they filled the space more quickly than a smaller mosaic would have. I think each room took us about two hours to lay, which felt like nothing compared to some of the others.

floor tile |grout: frost | door: SW White Truffle

And even though they were just simple square tiles that went down easily, the final floor still looks interesting and intricate – which was the goal. So we’re thrilled with these. Ten stars. Would recommend. Final verdict: If you’re looking to achieve something similar and keep your project as simple as possible, I would choose square tiles like these and these. They’re both porcelain too, so they don’t need to be sealed and cared for like more finicky materials do (we’re looking at you cement tile).

floor tilewall tile | grout: frost | door: SW White Truffle | drop-in tub

The only thing we’d do differently next time is we’d use a darker gray grout in the room above. We were trying to streamline everything and keep cost down by not buying different grout colors for each room (and whatever color went on the floors also went in the shower – some of which weren’t grouted at the time of these photos). But Sherry thinks a darker gray would’ve made the grout lines recede a bit more, helping the diamond pattern show through stronger. Anything for a diamond, right?

Let’s move on to the next simplest tile to install…

The Marble Hex Tile

floor tile | grout: frost | door: SW Oyster Bay 

Now, this tile isn’t actually marble (it’s porcelain, just like everything else – because they’re extra durable and never need to be sealed) but it may be our favorite in the entire house. The marble finish is classic and bright, but the pattern on top makes it unique and unusual. We’ve actually talked about maybe using the same tile in our own bathroom here in Richmond – thats how much we like it.

(Note: the space between the tile & the tub or the tile & the baseboard in various shots throughout this post will get white quarter round molding, so it all looks seamless in the end)

floor tile | wall tile | grout: frost | door: SW Oyster Bay | wall: SW Spare White

Like the square tiles, this hex was about 8 x 8″ so the size was very manageable to work with and it provided fast coverage in the room. I think this one maybe took us 3-4 hours instead of 2. And that’s mainly because (1) the hex shape took more care to cut and lay and (2) the asymmetrical pattern took more concentration to not screw up. Speaking of which, there are two different looks you can get with this tile. See how the triangles are all the same color in the left picture below and they’re shaded differently in the right picture because we rotated the hexes? We laid out both options and picked the one on the right.

In addition to having to concentrate on not screwing up the pattern, hex tiles are a bit more finicky when it comes to spacing and not letting your layout drift. One tile laid too close to another in your first corner can cause big headaches down the line as that little inconsistency gets magnified in each subsequent row. So we actually laid out lots of tile BEFORE mixing Thinset to check how everything lined up and to ensure that we didn’t end up with slivers of tile anywhere. This may seem like overkill, but it made things go much faster once we actually started setting things for good.

Final Verdict: Ultimately this tile was noticeably (but not dramatically) harder than the square tiles, and with enough spacers (we used 1/16th spacers) we were able to keep everything lined up and spaced similarly. Even if our spacing had drifted a little, the grout color we used disguised the spacing pretty well anyways. Sidenote: we love this Mapei grout because it comes premixed AND doesn’t need to be sealed and is durable/flexible/stain resistant. So once it’s dried and any grout haze is buffed off, it’s totally good to go. Our contractor swears by it and won’t use anything else, so we tried it throughout the pink house and after over a year of heavy use, all the grout in the bathrooms/mudroom still look mint (no grout scrubbing in over a year, folks!)

But just because this hex tile went down smoothly, doesn’t mean it all will…

The Patterned Hex Tile

This other hex tile went in hall bathroom on the same side as the one above and, well, it’s a good thing we love how this tile turned out because it felt straight up cursed when we were installing it.

floor tile | grout: warm gray | door: SW Oyster Bay

First, it presented some of the same challenges as the last hex tile – a non-square shape and an asymmetrical pattern. But this pattern was even trickier to keep straight, which caused a few bad cuts along the way (plus, it was much harder to reuse cut pieces because the pattern was so particular). I actually laid one tile in the WRONG direction and we didn’t notice it until a week later when it was time to grout. Can you spot it below?

It wasn’t a big deal to fix. I just broke it up with a hammer, removed the shattered pieces of that single tile, and installed a new piece in its place – but it did set my grouting back a day because we had to wait for that new thinset to cure before grouting. And of course, this happened AFTER we had run out of tile during the actual installation. Yep, we were like 80% done and had to order another box. So this room had two pretty frustrating setbacks. But eventually we got it done.

floor tile | grout: warm gray | door: SW Oyster Bay | wall: SW Spare Whitedrop-in tub

We actually think the square footage calculations on the website are wrong because a couple of our readers reported being short on these same tiles as well. And even without any bad cuts, we don’t think we would have had enough (again: it’s really really hard to reuse your scraps with a pattern like this). So if you use these tiles, I’d recommend getting around 25% extra (not just your typical 10-15% recommended overage).

Final Verdict: If ease and speed are important factors for you when you’re choosing a tile, I would NOT recommend this one. The result was great, but keeping the pattern straight kinda made our brains hurt, this specific tile ran short for us based on the square footage listed on the site (and we heard it did for a few other people), and now we know that we can get interesting patterns with simpler square tiles.

The Chevron Mudroom Tile

Let’s move downstairs to the two mudrooms / laundry rooms. I don’t have “after” photos of these because we haven’t grouted them quite yet (since the back doors act as the main entrances for the crew, the mudrooms are still seeing a lot of foot traffic and grime). So right now they’re both covered in protective paper and we’ll grout once things calm down over there. That means my best photos are mostly progress photos.

floor tile | spacers |wall: SW Spare White | trim: SW Extra White

We really liked installing this chevron tile because the rectangular shape made it easy to lay out and cut, plus the size (17″ x 35″) meant the room – which is nearly the size of all four bathrooms combined – filled up very quickly. The only downside to the size was that they were a bit heavy and cumbersome to maneuver, and I had to get creative with how I rested them on the guide of my wet saw to get them to fit under the blade while I cut them. Plus, keeping big tiles level can be challenging so we always recommend using these LASH spacers, which you can read more about in this post.

My only beef with this tile is that ideally, your spacing between tiles would match the spacing of the zigzags within the tile itself. However, to do that, the manufacturer recommends a (wait for it) … 2/17th spacer. WHO THE HECK SELLS A TWO-SEVENTEENTHS SPACER?! Fortunately, a standard 1/8th or 1/16th (which is what we did) is pretty close to 2/17ths. But still, I feel like it’s an unnecessary complication that could make your chevron not line up perfectly. But even still, for a big room, I would definitely choose this tile again.

Final Verdict: Larger tiles can be harder to handle, cut, and to get level, but these tiles were worth the trouble and we finished the room quickly since they were so large. It’s also one our favorite tiles looks-wise (this room gets the most in-person compliments) and it’s extremely durable (porcelain again) so we would recommend this for sure, especially with the LASH spacers we used. 

The Herringbone Mudroom Tile

I’ve saved the best for last. And by the best, I mean hands-down-the-hardest. Yes folks, this is the one we probably would NOT do again… which is hard to say because it’s so darn cool to look at (even here, when it’s still ungrouted). Reminder: the space between the tile & the baseboard in various shots throughout this post will get white quarter round molding, so it’ll all look seamless in the end. 

floor tiles: pinkwhite, and taupe | wall: SW Spare White | trim: SW Extra White

To create this floor we laid three different colors of long porcelain tiles (pinkwhiteand taupe) in a herringbone pattern, making it a perfect storm of all the challenges of the previous rooms combined:

  • The tri-color pattern took lots of concentration to keep straight
  • Despite being long rectangular tiles, laying a herringbone meant LOTS of angled cuts, which are less forgiving
  • It was difficult to reuse cut pieces because of the alternating colors and angled cuts
  • A herringbone pattern needs meticulous spacing to keep your pattern from drifting

Because of all of those factors – and because it was such a large room – this is the only space that took us an entire day to complete. Heck, it took us more than two hours just to get our pattern planned and the initial pieces cut. Maybe we were just tired (this was room five of six that we did across two consecutive weekends) but it took nearly all of our mental energy to precisely measure all of these angled cuts, to keep things square to the walls, and to not screw up the color sequence in the process.

Final Verdict: This was by far the hardest tile choice and it took the longest and required the most mental calculations (angled cuts, creating the pattern ourselves with three different colored tiles, etc). I think it could’ve been simpler had it been a smaller room (or frankly, just a wider room with more full pieces) or if we hadn’t done the herringbone pattern, so I don’t want to totally dissuade anyone from recreating this. Because again, we’re REALLY happy with the result. But I do want you guys to know what you’re getting yourselves into.

And One More Thing… About Toilet Holes

This post didn’t cover a lot of “how to” because tiling is something we’ve talked a lot about over the years (I’ll link to some of our previous tutorials at the bottom of this post). But I did want to cover one thing that lots of people asked about on Instagram: cutting around the toilet flange in the floor. See that nice round cut below? Who knew so many people would notice and ask us how it’s done. So here ya go.

I didn’t document this process and we were already done by the time the process arose, so I’ve tried to illustrate below what I do to make the round cuts around the flange. Most people use an angle grinder to get a really pretty circle cut, but I don’t own one, so my process involves my wet saw and it’s decidedly less pretty, but here it goes…

Basically once I’ve marked the area that needs to be cut, I make a two long cuts from each side at the shallowest angles I can manage (marked in red and purple in the top right picture). This removes a few big chunks and makes the next cuts easier.

Then I make a bunch of short cuts very close together – almost like making teeth – along the edge of the circle (marked in purple and red in the bottom left picture above). The “teeth” usually break off in the process, or if they’re too thick I just run my blade against them again. The final result is rarely a perfect circle and often has little indentations where I made the teeth cuts. But it’ll all be covered by a toilet anyways, so it doesn’t need to be perfect.

In fact, I probably don’t need to be as meticulous as I am since it’ll be hidden under the toilet. But you don’t want to get too lazy because your toilet needs a flat solid surface to rest on and if your chosen porcelain throne has an especially small base, a larger cut could end up peeking out.

Speaking of which, the upstairs toilets and vanities got installed last week so we’re hoping to make a trip out there this weekend to check it all out! Things are really coming together!!

More Tiling Projects & How To’s:

If you’re interested in more tutorials on tiling or to check out some of our previous tile projects, check out some of the links below:

*This post contains affiliate links*

The post The Duplex Is Tiled! Here’s What We Loved & What We Wouldn’t Do Again appeared first on Young House Love.


The Duplex Is Tiled! Here’s What We Loved & What We Wouldn’t Do Again published first on www.younghouselove.com

Hackers Help: How to remake cam lock holes?

I want to put a 78.5” wide PAX configuration in a 77” space for a kids room. My plan is to eliminate the drawer on the right unit, then cut the shelves and rails to be 1.5” narrower.

How to remake the cam lock holes?

My question is, how do people attach two laminated pressboard IKEA pieces after they’ve cut off the cam lock holes?

How to remake the cam lock holes?


Related: See more Hackers Help questions and answers.


Are they using drills bits and/or tiny hole saws to remake the cam lock holes? Or screws drilled in from the outside with wood glue? The outside pieces won’t be visible in my completed setup so I could go either way.

I’m curious what other people are doing, either I haven’t seen this detail in past hacks or I haven’t been paying attention.

~ by Jenny

***

Hi Jenny

The best and tidiest method is to use the cut-off portion as a template to reproduce the same cam lock holes in the correct positions. The right sized drill bits and a Forstner bit should do the trick. A Forstner bit will drill a flat-bottomed hole (as opposed to a regular bit which will give you a pointy bottomed hole). This will hold the cam nut in its new place.

You can also use a dowelling jig but I think it’s pretty unnecessary to buy one unless you have loads of cam lock holes to make.

Here’s a pretty detailed video showing how to reproduce cam lock holes using drill bits and a Forstner bit. You do need to be precise though, if not the cam won’t connect and lock.

How to drill cam lock holes

Sometimes, if I’m lazy, which is most of the time, 🙂 (and the finished piece won’t be disassembled in the future), I’d just join the two sections with countersunk screws. Drilling in from the exterior piece to the inner board, just like you mentioned. Not pretty, but it works too. 

I hope that will help you get started on your project. Let us know how it goes.

Happy hacking,

Jules


Suggested for you: More answers to the questions on the IKEA PAX system


The post Hackers Help: How to remake cam lock holes? appeared first on IKEA Hackers.


Hackers Help: How to remake cam lock holes? published first on www.ikeahackers.net

Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Finishing the Side of the House: THE BIG REVEAL!

WELL. This has been a long time coming. About two and half years ago, I embarked on what’s likely the biggest renovation that my house will see under my care, and it was a DOOZY. The goal was to bring the south-facing side of the house back to some semblance of how it was built, which meant demolishing two additions, adding windows (prompting a complete demo of my kitchen, and partial demos of my bedroom and den), insulating, restoring the original clapboard siding and various trim details, re-roofing a bay window (twice!), a ton of prep and paint, adding downspouts…it was a lot of work. Most of it was completed during that first summer, but then the remaining to-do list sort of languished as I attended to more pressing matters. At the end of this past August I was able to dive back in, and over the course of about 2 months I got most of those remaining items completed! There’s still work to be done, but those things could take years and I want to show you what I did NOW!

Did you know that there’s an archive function on Google street view? I did not know! So this is what the Googlemobile captured on its way through Kingston after my house had been put on the market but before I ever saw it! Check out that crazy antenna toward the back of the roof! This was also before the listing agent had a crew of painters quite literally slap a fresh coat of paint over everything (you can imagine how well that’s holding up), which to their credit did fool me into thinking the exterior was in better shape than it actually was. Lol whoops.

Then I moved in, and a few months later had the roof replaced and the fire escape demolished.

Later on I replaced the chainlink fence, demolished that boxy addition off the back, and added a little bit of landscaping. Which left us here! THEN THINGS GOT CRAZY.

More than one person walking by literally asked if we were tearing the house down—that’s how dramatic it looked at times!

I sort of love this photo. That bay window looks so BLEAK. The clapboard is about half new and half old. As in the past, all of the siding was removed, planed, primed, and usable pieces were put back up. I’m not sure why I’m using the passive voice because THAT WAS ME. I DID THAT. It’s a little cuckoo crazy but it feels like the right thing to do, and the old siding boards maintain more character than the new ones do. It would have been nice to have enough stock of old siding to use it exclusively, but I didn’t.

I did take some creative liberties, either where I just had no clue what was here historically or thought I had a better idea. The two new kitchen windows (bottom right) are an example of the former. I don’t feel like they’re especially right, but I was trying to take into consideration the second floor dormer window, which was likely added in the 1930s and isn’t the most elegant thing in the world.

Another departure from history was increasing the size of the cornerboards, which are originally 4″ on this house. What can I say! I like a wide cornerboard on a Greek Revival house! The front/main section of the house now has 12″ wide cornerboards, while the back kitchen addition has 8″ cornerboards. Once the other sides of the house are done, I’ll add some trim to the tops where the cornerboards meet the fascia, which is how they’re typically done to give the appearance of a pilaster.

Speaking of cornerboards, one decision I’m very happy about was to drop a wide “cornerboard” between the main house and the kitchen addition to kind of subtly delineate the two structures. The siding actually was continuous between the kitchen and the rest of the house underneath the vinyl, so it was tempting to stick with that…but I had this eleventh hour idea that I really thought would work, or look completely dumb, so I went for it and I’m glad I did. To me it’s just enough to restore the proportions of the original house without getting too crazy, you know?

Lastly, the windows! Originally, the “window” to the left of the bay and the one directly above it were both faux windows—trimmed with a casing and sill but with a set of closed shutters rather than a window. Purely decorative! People think this is nuts but I SWEAR a) it’s how the house was built and b) it’s actually how a lot of houses were built—you might see it more often than you think! Next time you see an old building with one or two shuttered windows, it might be because there’s nothing behind those shutters!

So anyway, I made the upstairs faux window into a real window, and moved both of them a smidge to the right of where they were originally so that the spacing between all the windows would be more even.

Then I proceeded to take two years to get around to actually modifying the shutters and installing them, so it feels like the whole town knows there’s just housewrap behind them. That being said, literally as I was screwing in the last screw on the shutter hinge, someone walked by and asked why I was shuttering just that one window…so. JUST MAYBE nobody is paying as much attention to me and my house as I am paying to me and my house.

SO ANYWAY.

It was all really intense, you guys. I really didn’t want this to look like the product of recent work (especially major work), so getting those details right was extremely important to me. Moldings had to be recreated, the new windows had to blend with the old, and preserving as much remaining original detail as possible was the name of the game. The whole time I tried to think about how I might react to seeing this house if I didn’t own it…would it look like a new (tasteful, hopefully, at least) renovation, or just a nicely preserved 19th century building? The goal was definitely the latter and…I think I did it?

My, how those little pear trees have grown! Let’s run that back one more time.

Before.

And after!

Before…

During…

After! I don’t miss that skinny enclosed space one bit. The dining room used to be kind of dark and dreary, and now it’s all bright and cheerful! This house already had good natural light, but these changes allowed that to be true in every room and that makes it SO worth it to me. I very rarely turn any lights on inside until the sun goes down—they just aren’t needed.

Recreating the third side of the bay window took some serious patience and even more serious head-scratching, but I’m REALLY happy with how it came out. There are some imperfections if you’re really inspecting it, but I’m considering them part of the history. A professional carpenter might have done a better job, but hiring one would have been too costly and…well, it’s just not the story of this house. It’s not a museum piece. It’s my home. And I do my best with what I’ve got.

In the past when I’ve painted the house I’ve tried to do two colors (bright white trim and less bright white clapboard) in two finishes (flat for clapboard, semi-gloss for trim), and I was never especially happy with it. More and more I noticed that my favorite white houses seemed to be using just one paint for everything, so that’s what I did and I’m so happy about it. It would have been more period appropriate to use a less bright shade of white (evidently they couldn’t make paint THIS white back in the day), but the aforementioned slapped-on paint on the cornices is very white and repairing/repainting those completely is a project for another time, and I wanted it all to blend. Also bear in mind that the front of the house is still covered in vinyl and pretty much untouched, so this keeps everything looking relatively uniform in the meantime. So, white it is!

I can’t give you a color because I got a little frustrated with the color and finish, and ended up combining a few different paints which resulted in a mix with a really nice satin sheen. I wrote down the “formula” so I can recreate it for future painting, but this is what happens when you have a billion half-used cans of paint leftover from lots of projects. I think the color would be similar to Ben Moore’s Simply White mixed at half-strength.

The painting alone felt…ENDLESS. My neighbors started making fun of me after a few weeks because HOW ARE YOU STILL PAINTING THAT HOUSE?! WHAT IS SO WRONG WITH IT?!

Well…enough that it took a very long time, that much I know! I tried to do a REALLY GOOD JOB so I really hope it lasts a long time. Like long enough that I can afford to hire a good painter next time and sit on my ass instead.

I’ve found a couple of shutter hinges in the yard, and you can see where they were mounted on the original window casings. House of Antique Hardware sells very similar reproductions, and I’m really happy with how nicely they match what was here! Someday I’d love for all the windows to have shutters, but for now that’s kind of a pipe dream.

My smoke bush was so tinyyyyyyy.

The shutters themselves I bought new (ordered through The Door Jamb locally), but I had to cut down the length and increase the width. I also added a bead detail to the center, which most old shutters have on the rabbet.

Originally each shutter had two hinges, but they just looked kind of naked so I added a third to the middle. Look at me being so naughty! Original shutters would have probably been black or dark green, but I thought that would look too jarring while the rest of the windows are shutter-less.

The next phase of exterior work will be dedicated to restoring the windows! Four of the original windows still have the aluminum triple-track storm windows, which I’ll remove one by one as I restore the windows behind them. That window on the right was under the cover of that solarium addition for the last century+, so it’s actually in good shape but desperately needs new glazing and paint—it kinda kills me I couldn’t get that one done this fall, but it’ll still be there in the spring. At some point I’ll get around to the little basement windows, too—I think they’ll look much better in black! I’ll also have to repoint the stone foundation down the line, but let’s just pretend I won’t. There’s always something to do.

1950.

2014.

2018.

Thank you for your patience with me, house. I hope you like your fresh new look.

You can read all about this project from start to finish by clicking the links below! I put them in chronological order and everything.

  1. Restoring the Side of My House
  2. Matching My Historic Windows
  3. The Wreckage: Part 1
  4. See Ya, Second Floor Bay Window Thing!
  5. Found in the Wall!
  6. The Solarium is Gone!
  7. The Bedroom Has a Fourth Window!
  8. Finishing the Side of the House: Part 1

Finishing the Side of the House: THE BIG REVEAL! published first on manhattan-nest.com