Thursday, May 31, 2018

“Fill that Niche” small space storage hack

My hubby and I live in 300 sq. ft. home. While he walked the 200 mile Camino Primitivo in Spain, I designed and built a small space storage unit to fill a 6 x 16″ niche in our “living room”. On the far right appears a floor to ceiling custom built-in shelving unit. On the left, an efficiency kitchen and laundry room I built from a SUNNERSTA KITCHEN and CART in a 5 x 3 ft. former laundry closet).

I built and installed this in one day. It cost about $100 USD for the following materials:

  • 6 DYNAN wall shelves
  • 6 deep, fat-headed screws for studs
  • 2 VARIERA shelf inserts 11” depth

Six DYNAN wall shelf units were stacked, bolted together following the IKEA instructions, and each unit also anchored to a stud in the back wall. Although not designed to stack this high, given it is rammed between three walls and anchored to a stud, it has already survived a 3.8 California earthquake without budging!

The only real hack is cantilevering the shelf out using 11″ deep VARIERA shelving insert shelves (without support legs). The VARIERA shelf piece clicks down into the bottom rear of the DYNAN base and is secured with a protruding screw and tiny wood block (to keep the VARIERA shelf from popping up in the back). As I only put objects whose weight is substantially supported by the DYNAN base, it is merely a comforting visual that wider objects have a deeper shelf for support.

~ by Sally Martin


You may also like these small space storage hacks

small space storage for shoes

Even in the slimmest of landing spaces, you can squeeze in a bit of storage for shoes. Farida shows us how to hang up a few decent pairs even in a tight spot, using a few RIBBA picture ledges and knobs. See how it’s done.

small space standing table

Squeeze in a standing work table even when you think you have no space for one. Get the tutorial.

small bathroom extra countertop space

No countertop space in your small bathroom? Here’s how you can add more counter space even in the smallest of bathrooms.


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Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Hackers Help: Can I turn regular PAX units into a corner wardrobe?

I am thinking of purchasing a PAX wardrobe to fit on a little corner on my entry room. I really like the new design of PAX for the corner wardrobe, the problem is that the corner unit is very similar to a regular unit but almost 3 times the price! (at least in Spain)

PAX corner wardrobe

Do you know if it is possible to hack a regular unit to act as corner unit? My guess is that making space to open the doors correctly is the tricky part. Thank you for your help!

~ by Yolanda from Spain

All photos from IKEA.com

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Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Full Length Vanity/ Selfie Mirror with Lights

I wanted a full length selfie mirror and hacking one off an IKEA mirror was less expensive and time-consuming. It would also be a better finish than purchasing a raw mirror and building a frame.

There is no way I would have done this without the MONGSTAD mirror and outdoor string lights. The time, safety and sheer weight of a self-built mirror that large would have made the project not feasible. This selfie mirror requires very little to no electrical and carpentry skills to finish this project.

The hardest part of this hack was making sure the holes were equally spaced. All those times you thought you would never use what you learned in Math… this project will make you wish you never said that.

For best results, before drilling double check your pilot hole spacing calculations from both directions to make sure they are accurate. Make sure pilot holes along left and right frames are aligned perfectly. You don’t get a second chance once you begin drilling.

To reduce weight, the top and bottom of the frame are solid. The right and left sides are hollow. There is a support beam about halfway up the sides. Note when drilling.

Use caution when drilling with the Forstner bit. Practice on scrap wood first. You want to minimize the amount of damage it causes to IKEA’s finish.

ikea mongstad mirror

MONGSTAD mirror | Photo: IKEA.com

Materials:
Paint
  • $13 – Liquid sander deglosser (or sand paper)
  • $12 – 3 cans wood, metal, plastic spray paint/primer
Tools
  • Measuring tape, ruler or speed square
  • Pencil
  • Drill
  • 1/8” drill bit
  • Forstner bit
  • Scrap cardboard
  • Hot glue gun (optional)
Time and cost
  • 6-7 non-consecutive hours (paint drying not included)
  • 5-6 hours if choose not to paint
  • $195 (with paint)
  • $170 (no paint) +/- tax.

How to hack a full length selfie mirror

1. Using scrap cardboard and tape, cover the mirror for protection from scratching and paint. Push the cardboard between the mirror and frame to ensure paint does not get on mirror.

Full Length Vanity/ Selfie Mirror with Lights

2. Find and mark middle of top, left and right frames and align/ attach blue paint tape.

3. Find mid-point again and mark on tape as center line guide for holes.

4. Measure equal spacing along center line and make perpendicular mark ‘X’ for where you want each light socket. Unfortunately, I did not save my measurements. I believe for 22 bulbs my spacing was approx. 7 13/16”

5. Measure spacing from opposite direction to double check your calculations.

6. Use 1/8” bit to drill pilot holes. Try not to exit back side of mirror yet (it is ok if you do). The reason for this is, unless you are experienced, it is difficult to keep your drill level so that the top pilot hole and exit hole are aligned at 90 degrees. However, the flexibility of the outdoor string lights allows for quite a bit of error here. I was pretty far off on several but the flexibility of the corded sockets made it a non-factor in the end result.

7. Using the pilot holes as a guide, use the Forstner bit to drill the holes. To limit damage to the finish do not exit the back of the frame. You will want to drill “in” from both sides.


Related: MONGSTAD floor mirror makeover


8. Now that you can see through the inside of the frame, center your 1/8” bit and drill the pilot holes through the back. If you are experienced and feel comfortable with keeping your drill at close to 90 degrees you can do this at step 6 and save time.

9. Turn the mirror over, use the Forstner bit and drill through the back using the pilot holes as a guide.

10. You should now have aligned holes through the front and back of the frames.

11. Remove paint tape.

12. If you choose not to paint, skip to step 15.

13. Following the instructions on the liquid sander deglosser, remove the finish from the frame.

14. Following the instructions on your spray paint, apply 3 coats.

15. Starting at the bottom of the mirror insert each socket through the holes on the back of the mirror and fasten with a screw.

16. Work your way around the entire mirror. The eye-hole provided with the string lights and a screw are enough to hold the bulb securely in place (see picture).

17. For extra support, applying glue with a hot glue gun through the back of the hole would help. (I did not do this, I felt it was secure enough with the screw only)


Related: Make a Barn Door using the IKEA MONGSTAD mirror


18. Any unused sockets at the end of the strand should be plugged for safety purposes. I used an E26 E27 Light Bulb Holder to Polarized Outlet Plug Converter Adapter.

19. Attach child proofing corner guards to top two back corners of selfie mirror before leaning against wall.

20. We use a wireless remote control outlet switch to turn the lights on the selfie mirror off/on, but not required.

Full Length Vanity/ Selfie Mirror with LightsFull Length Vanity/ Selfie Mirror with Lights

~ by Cassidy

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Monday, May 28, 2018

Balsa Turbine Shade for the REGOLIT floor lamp

I really wanted a floor lamp that would hang a nice looking shade + bulb over my IKEA dining table. I couldn’t find any that I liked, so I bought the REGOLIT floor lamp with the intention of getting rid of its super oversized lamp shade.

It took several days to get the design down and test several different materials. Any wood lighter than balsa would have weighed down the lamp too much. The balsa was a bit expensive, I’d say not including my time it was about $40 in materials (which included some trial and error to be fair).

I like how warm the light coming off of the balsa looks.

Materials:
  • REGOLIT Floor Lamp
  • Balsa Wood sheets (1/16″)
  • Clear acrylic sheet (1/8″)
  • Laser Cutter (or you can purchase these pre-made parts online, see link at end of message)
IKEA REGOLIT Floor lamp

REGOLIT Floor lamp | IKEA.com

How to hack an alternative REGOLIT floor lamp shade

I used Rhino (3d modeling software) to create a CAD model of the lampshade. The shade consists of 3 parts:

  • The fins
  • The smaller top acrylic ring (That attaches to the actual light fixture)
  • The larger bottom acrylic ring (That helps keep the fins together, and gives a subtle twisting effect)

In the picture showing the disassembled parts, you can see the acrylic rings have notches. These should be the same width as the material you are using.

The notches on the top ring are at a more extreme angle than the bottom ring. This is to better obscure the lightbulb at the top of the shade, and let more of the light pass through at the bottom of the shade.

I used a laser cutter to cut out the profiles of the fins in 1/16″ balsa wood sheets, as well as to cut out the acrylic rings out of 1/8″ cell cast acrylic. There are 1/8″ wide notches at the top of the fins to line up with the top acrylic ring, and notches (like little shelves) on the bottom of the fins to hold up the bottom acrylic ring.

To assemble, you first take the top ring and secure it to the REGOLIT light fixture, using the included screw-ring to keep it in place.

Then you attach a couple of fins on opposite sides of the top ring. Take care during this step as they will just be hanging their unsupported until the bottom ring comes into play.

Now place the bottom ring in between those two fins. Make sure it is aligned with the top notch. I just counted how many empty slots I had in between fins on the top ring, and made sure I left that many open between fins on the bottom ring.

Now just keep filling in the fins. It will become more stable the more fins you add.

I like to make sure the top notch lines up with the top ring before I slot the bottom notch under the bottom ring slot.


The making of the lamp took a bit of trial and error. Getting the notch sizes right took some time. Also finding the right material. I tried other woods and veneers and they were much too heavy – the lamp was literally touching the table.


I love how well it pairs with the REGOLIT floor lamp base. I feel like the scale of this shade compared to the one it comes with is more appropriate (just my opinion).



This shade is actually for sale on my website if anyone is interested, see the link here.

~ by Brian Harms

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Friday, May 25, 2018

Add numbers to your STOLPA Clock

There were no numbers on the STOLPA clock and I wanted to help my young kids read time. This hack adds 3D printed numbers to the clock. It took a couple hours to design the numbers with a CAD program and a few more to 3D-print them. The only cost (besides the clock) was for PLA filament which was less than 10$.

IKEA items used:
  • STOLPA Clock

Add numbers to your STOLPA Clock

Add numbers to your STOLPA Clock

Photo: IKEA.com

Other materials and tools:
  • 3D printed numbers
  • 3D printer (or access to 3D printing service)

Designing the numbers was the hardest part. Printing was easy. Once you have your numbers printed, glue them on the clock and you’re done.

Add numbers to your STOLPA Clock

~ by Jean-Marc Bouley


You may also like these other clock hacks

Industrial style clock

modern industrial clock

Starla thought the HYLLIS shelf looked modern/industrial. So she turned it into a modern chic clock! See more.

Colorful fabric wrapped clockcustom clock

Form and Function wanted a bright, fun clock for the pop-art inspired home office they decorated (a previous IKEA Hacker post), but didn’t find anything they really liked. After making curtains and pillows from IKEA fabric, they had some left over and thought it would be the perfect pattern on the clock. See more.

Countdown timer clock

countdown timer clock

Make a Timetimer. A Countdown timer wall clock for all situations (seminars, classes, meetings). See the tutorial.


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Thursday, May 24, 2018

Hack a lightweight, wooden washbasin cabinet

I wanted to hack a simple washbasin cabinet for my sink, which has an oval bottom. This hack uses the MOLGER cart and took about 6 hours. The cost for materials and the MOLGER cart came up to around $80.

IKEA items used:
  • MOLGER cart, birch (Article Number: 202.414.09)

Hack a lightweight, wooden washbasin cabinet

Other materials and tools:

To create this simple washbasin cabinet, you need to measure the shape of the ceramic sink.

Measure the bottom shape of the washbasin.

Measure the height of the sink.

Saw in the upper shelf from under the washbasin. (I had to cut out the hole under the sink and remove the top 4 frames).

Hack a lightweight, wooden washbasin cabinet

Paint.

Don’t use included castors! Use another fixed feet.

Hack a lightweight, wooden washbasin cabinet

The most difficult part is to measure the shape of the bottom part. My washbasin has an oval shape, which is difficult to fit into the rectangular shape of the stand.

Hack a lightweight, wooden washbasin cabinet

~ by Max “Tusken” Grebennikov


You may also like these small bathroom vanities

Customized Silveran bathroom vanitycustomized IKEA SILVERAN vanity

Here’s how Marti customized an IKEA vanity, the SILVERÅN, for their newly-remodeled half-bathroom. Because this powder room is in a visible spot, they wanted a vanity that looked like a piece of furniture they would have elsewhere in the house. See more.

BEKVÄM kitchen cart in the bathroom

Todd made the BEKVÄM kitchen cart work as a bathroom vanity. The cart is made of solid pine and is a good size for a small bathroom. See more.


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Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Hackers Help: IKEA kitchen doors on PAX frame?

According to your experience, is it possible to use KUNGSBACKA IKEA kitchen doors on PAX units?

We have two PAX units in the entryway and would like to change their doors and use KUNGSBACKA ones. Our kitchen is KUNGSBACKA and we love it a lot!

Hackers Help: IKEA kitchen doors on PAX frame?

Hackers Help: IKEA kitchen doors on PAX frame?

Photo: IKEA.com

Thanks for your reply and help.

~ by Gaja di Stefano

***

Hi Gaja

Measurements for the PAX and METOD/ SEKTION are different, so you won’t be able to use the KUNGSBACKA doors on the PAX frames straight up.

For example, the width of PAX frames are either 50 cm or 100 cm, while KUNGSBACKA doors measure 20, 40 or 60 cm wide.  

Some modifications on the width and height of the KUNGSBACKA doors as well as holes for the fittings will be required. While it can be done, I won’t recommend it. 

Why not go for the Nexus black-brown doors instead, if you prefer darker doors? 

Jules 

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The Duplex Is Coming Back Together, And It’s Happening Quickly!

Last time our duplex renovation was on the blog, it was still looking like shell – er, skeleton – of its former self (see below). The stench of potential was thick in the air (how’s that for a mental picture?) and today, nearly a month later, we’re gonna blow a big whiff of progress in your general direction.

We’re starting to see our new floor plan come to life, the second story additions on the back of the house (two more bathrooms!) are nearly complete, and the rain held off just long enough last week to get the front windows in – including Sherry’s precious diamond-grille windows in the top middle (if you follow us on Instagram, you know she’s more obsessed with them than I think any normal human has ever been).

As you can see from that picture above, it’s actually starting to look like a habitable structure again. Sherry made a video walk-through to show you all of the progress, so pressing play below is the best way to get the full picture of what has changed (and what’s up next on the agenda). There’s also another tweak that we made in the back bedroom that makes a GIANT difference, which is a lot easier to see on video. Just watch it below or here on YouTube. NOTE: If you’re viewing this in a feed reader, you may need to click through to see the video. 

Since our last video tour, the biggest interior change has been the completion of structural repairs and new framing. You may remember that during demo we discovered some areas were worse than we thought, namely the back corners where a porch had been enclosed. How could you forget this GIF of our contractor Sean demonstrating how flimsy the old framing was?

Well, a couple of weeks ago Sean texted this to Sherry. How can you not love a contractor who uses a Boomerang to show you that your house doesn’t shake anymore?

Just around that back corner is where the bathroom additions are being added on the second floor. They’ll give the back bedrooms an ensuite bathroom – and take each side of the duplex from having 1 full bath to 2, plus a powder room we’re adding downstairs). The shot below is from a couple of weekends ago, after it had been fully framed.

For reference, this is what the back of the duplex looked like when we bought it. A small bump-out had been added to the first floor at some point, so we thankfully got approval from the Historic Review Board to extend the bump out up to the second level (they care waaaay less about changes that are on the back of the house since you can’t see them from the street).

Here’s a similar angle now, which we photographed last weekend while the crew was trying to squeeze in some work on the roof between rainstorms. Things were a bit slow-going last week because of the nonstop downpours we were getting on the East Coast, but at this point we’ll take any progress we can get! In fact, as you read this today, we’ve been told all of the windows and almost all of the plywood sheathing should be in place – and that bathroom on the right should extremely close to being under roof as well.

The new bathrooms will each get a window to replace the original window covered by the new additions, but we also asked the Historic Review Board (read: Sherry begged) to approve an additional window in the back bedroom to increase the natural light in there. It otherwise only would’ve had one (while the front bedroom has three) and we felt like a master really should be a nice, light-filled space.

Happily, it was approved, and as soon as they cut the opening, we realized that not only does it add a ton of light to that room, it can actually be seen from the upstairs hallway and even fromTHE BOTTOM OF THE STAIRS as you walk up! So the fact that you can enjoy that light shining into the back bedroom, even from your first few steps in the front door, is pretty exciting. You can see this in action in Sherry’s video above.

This before photo below shows how claustrophobic the original staircase felt. This was taken from the front door on the left side, and you basically walked into a wall as soon as you got to the top of the stairs.

The photo below – which I took standing on the stairs of the right side – also shows how we were able to make the upstairs landing much larger by pushing that wall back several feet. And actually, it’s not a wall anymore. It’s the doorway to the back bedroom that leads your eye right through to that new window (although the window hadn’t been cut yet when I snapped this picture). But you get the idea! It’s right next to that brick chimney you can see exposed.

Here’s another view of the new upstairs landing (taken from the doorway to the front bedroom). You can still see the footprint of the old wall there in the floor, just to give you an idea of how much more we opened things up. We basically doubled the size of the landing!

I won’t try to show you all of the framing up here, just because it’s hard to decipher photos that are basically just a forest of 2x4s – but Sherry goes over the whole floor plan (and all the what’s-going-where details) in the video if you want a quick tour. Just know that what used to look like this…

… now looks more like this. Progress!

Downstairs is a little easier to see because there are fewer rooms and the floor plan is more open. For instance, the opening between the main living/dining area into the kitchen is much wider now. You can see in the floor how narrow the passage was before (it was less than half this size before).

Since I couldn’t let Sean be the only GIF in this post, here’s the progress of that vantage point: taking from you from the before, though interior and exterior demo, to now all reframed.

The other opening that was widened was the one between the kitchen and laundry/mudroom. It looks CRAZY wide in this shot below because we’re installing pocket doors to separate the two areas, so you basically have to leave twice as much area open during framing (so the doors have somewhere to slide into). So once we get the pocket door system and drywall installed, it will only be half as wide. But it’ll still be a nice, big, nearly-6-foot-doorway. And Sherry has some exciting pocket door plans for this space (like this or this).

It will actually be close in size to the original opening (a little smaller) – but the window will be centered and you’ll have pocket doors. We like the idea of pocket doors with a frosted window on top so people can still get light into the room, even with the doors closed. Sadly, I don’t think the faux greenery garland will make a reappearance.

Assuming the weather cooperates, the next couple of weeks should mean that roofing and siding will start going up. Then once the porch starts coming back together (we’re adding a tin roof, thicker columns, and a wood railing that looks as original as possible), it should really start looking like a completed house from the outside. Inside we’ll still be working on mechanicals – aka, plumbing, electrical, HVAC – which will take longer, but it’s always a relief to have the outside all airtight and waterproof again.

And yes, Sean’s company sign is gigantic. Here’s Sherry for scale:

We texted him after seeing one in front of another project that he’s doing in town and said (sarcastically) “I don’t think your sign is big enough.” And now he’s basically trolling us by putting one at the duplex. Touché Sean, touché.

Sherry has obligated me to end this post with one last shot of her beloved diamond windows. The original ones we had hoped to preserve were just too brittle to reuse (no matter how many times Sherry said we “could just glue them”) so Sean helped us hunt down a company that could replicate them to the exact size and proportion of the old ones. Not only the window size – but the exact diamond scale and size as well. If only I had moved that broom before taking this.

Cross your fingers for dry weather and hopefully we’ll have even more progress to show you soon! Sherry keeps Instagram and Facebook (especially Instagram Stories) pretty well updated these days, so you can always catch up to the minute duplex news there! And probably hear Sherry squealing about the diamond windows again.

P.S. You can catch all of our previous duplex posts and projects right here, and if you’re interested in going back to read all of our pink beach house updates and posts, here’s that category for you. 

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