Wednesday, November 30, 2016

Give BILLY bookshelf easy drawers with MOPPE

IKEA items used: Billy bookcase, Moppe birch mini chest drawer

When you talk about Ikea, BILLY bookcase is one of their most famous product, everyone has same in their home. I have three of them and I have a MOPPE birch drawer chest lying around for quite some time. In the end I found it tucked in one of BILLY shelves.

MOPPE drawers for BILLY-1

It took so much space so I decided to get rid of it! But wait, what if I can insert these drawers above or under the annoying unadjustable middle shelf. I thought on it a little while and it turns out to be way easier than I thought.

I took advantage of adjustable shelves of BILLY.

As you see MOPPE drawers do not need any mechanism or additional part other than two pieces of wood holding them in place. So I add an extra shelf right above the one in the middle, to do that I needed to drill a little pin hole in the back of the both sides. After that I just inserted the drawers and that is it.

MOPPE drawers for BILLY-6

You can do this with any type of birch plywood drawer because they are solid yet very light to pull and push. You can always adjust the height of shelves and I was lucky the depth of MOPPE drawers fitted perfectly for BILLY.

MOPPE drawers for BILLY-10 MOPPE drawers for BILLY-9

Future Modification:
1. You may consider re-cutting the drawers to fit perfectly the width of BILLY which is 77 cm inside.
2. Consider attaching a thin rope or piece of cloth to back of drawers and bookcase to prevent drawers coming out too much.

~ by Omer Petek, Istanbul

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Tuesday, November 29, 2016

From simple shoe rack to sweet custom bench

I’ve had this simple wood shoe rack from IKEA probably for more than 15 years.

Before hack view - IKEA BABORD shoe rack

Before hack view - IKEA BABORD shoe rack

I bought it while I was in college, they were cheap and ubiquitous. I actually had several copies, but only this one survived the purges of the years. It is now so old I haven’t been able to find its original name anywhere, but anyone over 35 should recognize it! The design is very simple, with no screws or glue required. The legs simply have indentations into which the slats slide, so they can be taken down and put together in less than a minute. This shoe rack was light and integrated well into any decor, so I carried it around from apartment to apartment, years after years.

Last year we moved to a new house, and I installed my good old shoe rack by the back door. It was a good place for it, but there were a few little things that bothered me (yes, I am old and picky now).

a) It is ever so slightly too long and too deep, so that it went over the door molding and was larger than the section of the wall by about an inch.
b) The boots can only go on top of the rack, and so the water and slush always drip on the shoes underneath. That has always been a concern, and the boots usually end up on the side of the rack.
c) I am not as spry as I was once and like to sit to put on and remove my boot, so I really wanted a bench.
I looked around for an appropriate replacement, to no avail, so I decided to transform my IKEA shoe rack to fit my needs, namely: make the shelves shorter and narrower, make a section for boots, and add a top to sit down.
I measured the space available and the height of our shoes (!) and came up with this plan:

plan

The hack itself went as follows, and only about half a day to complete (+ drying time):
1. Using a miter saw, I cut about ½ inch on each end of one of the shoe rack shelf so that it would be just under 30” long. I also cut down the dowels to remove one of the slats, so that it would be narrower. I made the cut flush with the second slat.
2. I cut ½ inch on one end of the other shelf, and cut on the other side of the center dowel, leaving the same measure on both sides. I also cut down the dowels to remove one of the slats.
3. I used some birch we had to make a 30 inches x 10 inches plank for the top of the bench.
4. I couldn’t use the original legs (too short, the indentations were not in the right place) so I cut down six pieces of birch for the legs. I made them the same size as the original legs, just longer (about 19 inches).

Rig for legs

new legs

5. I cut indentations in the legs using a table saw with the blade set low, just enough to rip out the depth required. I made a small U-shaped jig to hold all the legs together so that the indentations could be made on all legs at the same time and be even. I had to make the lower indentations on four legs first, then I increased the size of the jig to accommodate the 6 legs for the top indentations.
6. I sanded down all the pieces.
7. Dry fit to test the assembly:

testing the new parts

8. The indentations I made were a bit too large, and thus the assembly was a little wobbly, too much to sit on comfortably. I ended up gluing and adding small screws to fix the outside laths to the legs (tip: predrill all holes, the old wood is super dry and might crack). I also added a piece of wood between the left legs to add stability. This piece is glued and screwed in place.

underside

9. To fix the top plank to the legs, first I screwed small pieces of wood to the underside of the plank. These pieces are the same length as the space between the legs and placed so that they will be placed right between the legs once assembly is completed. Then I installed the top on the legs and screwed the legs to those pieces, after predrilling.
10. Once fully assembled I put two coats of furniture oil on all parts.
11. My new bench in place! Very happy with the results.

Final result view - IKEA BABORD shoe rack hacked into custom bench

Final result side view - IKEA BABORD shoe rack hacked into custom bench

~ by Myriam

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Monday, November 28, 2016

Strapping KLÄMTARE boxes

Items

  • Ikea: KLÄMTARE, large box, code 702.923.64
  • Few pieces of leather or similar material
  • Blind/POP rivets or similar fasteners

Rationale

KLÄMTARE is for me the de facto organizational unit. After switching quite a few box families I’ve chosen this set also for my workshop and house and now to the car.

Having a lot of things in the back of my car, especially now, during the winter: straps, hooks, jacks, puncture kits, emergency signaling, ax and shovel and so on I’ve put them all in one big KLÄMTARE box (excepting the shovel which stays in a dedicated rack) but the box was sliding across the floor. There are no predefined strapping/hooking points on this box so I needed to improvise the solution  you see below.

Procedure

Cut 6 pieces of leather or similar material and punch two holes adequate for the rivet’s diameter. Drill the box and use thin washers on booth sides for stress relief. Use rivets for a nice finish. You can use screws too, but rivets are more aesthetically pleasing for me in this case.

Use the newly formed loops for strapping the box against points in the car’s floor.

KLÄMTARE boxes

Klamtare straps

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We Bought A House!

But don’t worry – we’re not moving into this one.

beach-house-before-john-sherry-sold-sign

As we shared on this week’s podcast, we recently purchased a beach house (!!!). But it’s not the fancy, high roller version that the term “beach house” tends to evoke. Nope, this one’s nearly 100 years old and can best be described as the roughest, most in-need-of-help house that we’ve ever purchased, and it’s already proving to be one of our most challenging projects.

(If you’d rather hear us gush about it informally, you can just press play below – and you can click here to learn how to subscribe for free.) 

We’re in love with the potential and charm of this old home and its awesome location, which are two of the things that emboldened us to take it on (along with a price tag that was dramatically lower than the other homes around it, due to its state). So let’s dive right in, and we’ll throw some “before” photos at you along the way – starting with the front.

beach-house-before-front

Where is it?

It’s located in Cape Charles, VA which is a small historic town on Virginia’s Eastern Shore. For those unfamiliar with Virginia’s coast, the Eastern Shore is a small peninsula that’s separated from the rest of the state by the Chesapeake Bay. So it’s about a 2.5 hour drive from our home in Richmond, which culminates in driving across a 17-mile long bridge over the Bay!

We first laid eyes on Cape Charles in 2013 completely by chance when we were asked to be one of the “real families” in a commercial for Virginia Tourism. They took us on a little tour of the Eastern Shore, and Cape Charles was one of the places we went. We were pretty much immediately smitten and kept saying things like “why doesn’t everyone go here?! I’ve never even heard of it!”

beach-house-before-2013-video-shoot

It’s a small, quiet town with an even quieter beach. There’s zero traffic (most people get around by foot, bike, or golf cart) and tons of small town charm: a family-owned ice cream shop on the main strip, a mailman who pushes a cart down the street, a single-screen movie theater called the “Palace Theatre.” The town is located on the Bay side (go Tigers!) of the peninsula so the water is calm and shallow, making it just about perfect for young kids (and great for kayaking and paddleboarding as they get older). We’ve gone back a bunch of times over the last few years and even on a Saturday in August we’ll pull up to find plenty of free parking spots right next to the beach. In a word: it’s awesome.

Why buy a house there?

We’ve tossed around the idea of getting a vacation home or a local rental house for years now. We both have parents who’ve had rental properties, so I think being exposed to it from a young age made it seem like something we wanted to try at some point. So for the last few years, we’ve been keeping our eyes open for the right home to scratch our incessant renovation itch. Not only do we think it’ll be a fun project for us, our hope is that it’ll be a good long term investment financially, as well as a good long-term investment to our family life (something that we can use for many years to come).

Obviously, the ability to share another reno project with you guys is a nice perk, but when we couldn’t shake the idea of getting a second property even after stepping back from daily blogging two years ago, it helped confirm that our motives weren’t just hinged on creating “more content.” Also, there are probably easier ways to find content than buying a 96 year old house that’s 2.5 hours away and needs this much work. Ha!

beach-house-before-from-door

We had started to narrow in on some local homes to possibly rent out long term, but the idea of Cape Charles kept sounding more and more exciting. Every time we’d visit, we’d notice more houses getting renovated or a new hotel or bed & breakfast popping up, so it was clear there was an upswing happening and we decided to pounce before we got priced out. Apparently even HGTV’s Beachfront Bargain Hunt has featured Cape Charles a couple of times, and each time more and more fixer-uppers get snatched up.

So on a trip in early September we finally called a local realtor to show us some options, and just like that the switch had been flicked from “gently considering” to “actively pursuing” a home there. It was both exciting and nerve-wracking.

beach-house-before-entry

Why THIS house?

All of the houses we looked at were in pretty rough shape. Yes, we liked the idea of rescuing something and contributing to the town curb appeal, but we also needed something we could afford. Details, right?

We had flagged a few houses on Zillow that were in the $75 – $100k range, but once we saw them in person their location/lot (both things you can’t change) quickly eliminated many of them. The one we ended up buying wasn’t actually ever listed on MLS or Zillow – it was just a “pocket listing” our realtor had been showing privately to people she thought might be up for the challenge. I guess she sized us up pretty well!

beach-house-before-dining-room

Despite it being at the top of our price range (it was $125,000) the house has LOTS going for it in terms of location. It’s three blocks from the beach, less than two blocks from the main shopping area, and it’s also close to Central Park (yes, that’s the name of their centralized little park with walking paths and play areas). So the convenience and walkability of it combined with just simply being on a super quaint tree-lined street, surrounded by other already-fixed-up older homes, pretty much made it a no-brainer.

Despite being in terrible shape, our house, which was built in 1920, has great bones and incredible charm. It’s actually one of four near-identical houses right in a row on the same street. And the others are nice concrete examples of how great ours could be with a little (okay, a lot) of work. This is the one to the right of us:

beach-house-before-neighbors-house

And actually, one of those other houses had recently sold, so our realtor was able to take us through it to see what a completely renovated version might look like. It felt like we were on one of those makeover shows where the host shows you a rendering of their proposed after, but instead of a rendering, it was a real life walk-through.

Touring that home sealed the deal because (a) there was no denying the potential ours had and (b) it had sold for nearly three times what we were paying for ours (!!!), so knowing that we have such a big “renovation cost” margin and that we can add that much value to the house feels like a safe investment for us.

beach-house-before-rotten-side

The house type is sort of hard to pin down (a few house experts we asked have said it’s a type of Victorian, but not one of those extremely ornate ones with lots of gingerbread). It does have those awesome porch columns and brackets that feel extra decorative – along with some pretty cool stained glass windows. And there are some great interior details like extra tall ceilings, an old claw footed tub that we plan to reglaze, an awesome old stair railing, solid wood doors with cool old knobs and keyholes…

beach-house-before-upstairs-bedrooms

… and even a back staircase that doesn’t exist in some of the other near-identical homes, so we’re excited to get to save ours. Also, Pepsi bottles from 1992.

beach-house-before-back-staircase

How do we plan to use it?

We love the idea of starting a family tradition with this house – having a place where we spend time each summer and even in the off-season (we dream about going out there to spend New Year’s with friends and their kids every year). My family spent a week on the Delaware shore nearly every summer growing up, and eventually my parents bought a beach house there so we could all keep meeting up there as our families grew. We still plan to go to Delaware with our extended family for those annual trips (it’s around 5 hours away), but this closer Cape Charles house feels like a nice way to establish something special for us four (and all the family and friends we’ll get to host over the years). A Petersik Summer Vacation Tradition, if you will.

beach-house-upstairs-bathroom

But beyond our own use of it, we do plan to rent it out as a vacation rental. There’s a pretty strong market for that in Cape Charles (some homes fetch upwards of $1800 a week in the summer!) so it’ll be a nice way to offset some of the costs of repairing and maintaining the house, plus we like the idea of the house having some life in it while we’re not there. We haven’t figured out the details of all that yet (whether we’ll do something like Airbnb or rent it out via another method) but we’ll definitely keep you posted as we learn more about how that whole world of rentals works.

beach-house-top-of-stairs

Are we going to DIY the renovation?

As seems to be the theme with us, we’re planning to DIY parts of the reno, but not all of it. Generally we’re planning to use professionals when it comes to the big important things we’d rather entrust to a pro, like foundation repairs, all new plumbing, all new electrical (there’s mostly knob & tube right now), new HVAC system, new roof, etc, etc. And then we’re hoping to step in and do a lot of the finishing/installing ourselves (kitchen and bathroom cabinetry & tile, painting, installing light fixtures/sinks/toilets, furnishing & decorating, etc).

beach-house-before-front-bedroom

Foundation repairs and HVAC updates aren’t exactly the most riveting stuff to document, so it might be a while until we have some bigger transformations to share, but we can’t wait to detail all of our layout ideas for it (based on walking through a few of the neighboring house-twins on either side). So we’ll be back with that stuff – including a diagram of the current and proposed floor plan. Soon I hope!

P.S. – For anyone who missed it, we shared our Annual Gift Guides For Gals, Guys, and Kids (there are still some great sales going on). 

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IKEA TIVED, now an IoT floor lamp

IKEA TIVED, now an IoT floor lamp

Photo: IKEA.com

A few months ago, Particle.io gave me a bunch of sample photons for mentioning them in my DefCon 24 talk. I needed something to use them and that reading lamp that is not connected to my home automation is bugging me…

So, the Ikea TIVED is a simple Led on/off floor lamp… not anymore! Add a Particle Photon to it and you have a dimmable Led Internet of Things:

  • One can still turn the light on & off via the foot switch.
  • Now one can also turn it on & off via the internet.
  • It’s also now dimmable!

The hardest was  fitting everything in there!

First, you need the following:

20161125_121922

Top left: Particle Photon (w/out headers as it won’t fit anymore!)

Top right: Generic transistor. I had a TIP-42 PNP laying around. DO NOT ATTEMPT to wire the Led through the Photon… you’ll fry it!

The case of the foot switch. How did I open it you ask?! Yes, those screws are in the way!

20161125_163836

Not to worry… an electric screwdriver with a flat head and sufficient vertical force will unscrew them :-)

Critical mods to the plastic shell:

  • for the base: remove the top clips and carve a slot for the board to sink into. Also cut part of the screw stands.
  • for the cover: thin the cover as much as possible and trim some of the screw post and button cylinder.
  • for the button: take out part of the flange.

Wiring is relatively simple:

Screen Shot 2016-11-25 at 5.04.26 PM

In other words, D1 is the controller of the transistor that powers the switch.

D6 reads the status of the foot switch to turn things on or off.

Here’s the source code:

<code>

#include “math.h”

int dim = 0;
int toggle;

void setup() {
pinMode(D1,INPUT);
pinMode(D6,INPUT_PULLUP);
toggle = digitalRead(D6);
Particle.function(“SetDim”,SetDim);
Particle.variable(“DimValue”, &dim, INT);

}

void loop() {

if (digitalRead(D6)!=toggle)
{
if (dim>0)
dim =0;
else
dim = 254;
toggle = digitalRead(D6);
}

for (int i=0;i<100;i++)
{
if (dim<254)
{
//off duty cycle
if (getPinMode(D1)!=INPUT)
{
pinMode(D1,INPUT);

}

delayMicroseconds(1*(254-dim));
}

if (dim>0)
{
//on duty cycle
if (getPinMode(D1)!=OUTPUT)
{
pinMode(D1,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(D1, 0);
}
delayMicroseconds(1*(dim));
}
}

}

int SetDim(String command) {
/* Particle.functions always take a string as an argument and return an integer.
Since we can pass a string, it means that we can give the program commands on how the function should be used.
In this case, telling the function “on” will turn the LED on and telling it “off” will turn the LED off.
Then, the function returns a value to us to let us know what happened.
In this case, it will return 1 for the LEDs turning on, 0 for the LEDs turning off,
and -1 if we received a totally bogus command that didn’t do anything to the LEDs.
*/

dim = (254*command.toInt()/100);
return dim;
}

</code>

Once you have it all wired, do test before going further… I had to try a couple times before I could fit everything and still have functional electronic!

20161125_152932

Now beyond being able to turn on & off your lamp with the foot switch, you can control that lamp from the web by posting to http://ift.tt/2fs3LPn  with params=[DimValue]&access_token=[AccessToken] as the post data where DimValue is between 0 (off) & 100 (full on)

Here’s a simple curl request for testing:

curl http://ift.tt/2fs3LPn -d params=50 -d access_token=[AccessToken]

:-)

Enjoy!

- by Fred

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Friday, November 25, 2016

Holiday Gift Guides For Guys, Gals, & Kids

We have a tradition around here when it comes to whipping up some holiday gift guides for the guys, gals, and kids in your life, so here are this year’s favorite finds. We rounded up around 35 items in each category – many of which are under $25 (there are even things under $5!). *There’s also a roundup of holiday coupon codes & discounts at the bottom of this post – you know we’re suckers for a sale, and some places have 50% off right now!* 

womensgirlsgiftguide

And here’s the stuff we found for the fellas (let the record show I want a bunch of things on this list too).

mensguysgiftguidepresentideas

And since we are shopping for two little ones, let’s dive into 35 fun gift ideas for babies and kids (many items are under $20, and nothing is over $45).

giftguideforkidsbabiesgamestoys

 And as promised, here are some current coupon codes & sales for ya:

*This page contains affiliate links*

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IKEA BILLY China Cabinet Hack

IKEA BILLY China Cabinet Hack

I wanted to share my Billy China Cabinet Hack that I recently installed. I had been searching for a couple of years for the perfect china cabinet for my breakfast nook. I wanted it to be tall (vaulted ceilings so everything needs to be tall), approximately 60 inches wide, and no more than 15 inches deep. Glass doors on top and closed storage on the bottom. Also needed integrated lighting and glass shelves. Nothing I found had all of the requirements I needed, so I decided to hack my own. BILLY was exactly what I needed!

Pieces used:

  • BILLY Wide Bookcase x1
  • BILLY Thin Bookcase x2
  • BILLY Wide Extension x1
  • BILLY Thin Extension x2
  • OXBERG Panel/Glass Door x2
  • OXBERG Wooden Door x2
  • OXBERG Small Glass Door x4

Here’s a drawing of the bookcase set-up:

IKEA BILLY China Cabinet Hack - schematic

I glued and screwed all the bookcases together, then attached them to the wall with the anchors provided in the cartons. I added crown molding to the top of the piece and shoe molding to the bottom to give the unit a built-in look. Door knobs that match my kitchen cabinets were used in place of the ones provided. I also used the IKEA DIODER LED lights (2 sets) to add lighting to the cabinet. The lights are plugged into an outlet at the bottom center of the cabinet (I had to cut a hole out of the backing to allow for plugging things in). I put the lights on a remote and the switch is attached to the right side of the cabinet for easy access.

The finished product is 63 inches wide, 96 inches tall (including molding), and 11 inches deep. It has a surprising amount of storage and is even the perfect depth that I can store my KitchenAid stand mixer in there!

I am so happy with the way this project turned out that I have already began planning a BILLY hack for my living room – wall to wall storage with room for a TV in the center.

~ by Julie Rosenthal

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Garage workbench made ridiculously simple

Garage workbench - corner

Items, all IKEA:

1. Tomnäs 2×2 shelving unit 2 pieces per section
2. Linnmon table top 75×150 one piece per section
3. Olov adjustable table legs 2 per section
4. Haganäs rounded Deco strip 221cm cut to desired length

Put two finished Tomnäs 2x2s back to back against the wall. Perfect height for a workbench. Kallax with legs would also work well if you’re a bit shorter and find 95cm is a bit high. They end up being 88cm if I’m not mistaken. I chose Tomnäs for my height and more importantly they were half off ;)

Put the Linnmon table top on top but upside down. Attach the two legs to one of the sides based on the orientation you end up wanting. Flip the table over right side up. Adjust leg height (don’t worry, while Olov legs state 90cm and the Tomnäs is 91.5, the legs do extend a little more allowing you to balance the top).

Add your favorite wood glue on the Tomnäs tops, or double sided tape, or large velcro pads. I prefer the velcro pads, means I can disassemble if needed.

Lather rinse repeat for however many sections you need :)

Garage workbench one side

Add the Deco strip for a finished look on the top against the wall. Still haven’t figured out how to finish the edges of the Deco strip so suggestions would be appreciated.

For my space a corner solution worked well. Excuse the mess, now comes time to organize! Happy hacking.

Image above show one single unit. The first picture shows the finished product made out of 2 units for my space.

~ peniole

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Thursday, November 24, 2016

Gold Match Striker

IKEA Nässjö candle holder hacked into gold match striker

I have a lot of lovely colourful matches at home as I think it’s always nice to have matches within easy reach, especially you like candles as I do!

So I have been looking for a nice match striker to display these lovely matches and all the beautiful ones was really out of budget.

My favourite one was a brass sphere match striker and when I realised that the Ikea Nässjö candle holders I had at home had a similar shape I knew I had my new match striker!

With a bit of DIY here is what I came with…

Materials:

- Ikea Nässjö candle holder
- Gold spray paint
- Matches with their box
- Scissors
- Glue

IKEA candle holder hacked into gold match striker

It’s a very easy and quick DIY. The Nässjö candle holder has two ends. One side is suitable for a block candle and the other for a large tealight.

All you have to do is spray paint your candle holder in gold. Then cut a bit of the strike part of the match box and glue it inside the candle holder where there is the IKEA logo (tealight side). Once you have done that, it’s finished! You have a beautiful match striker with one side to display your matches and one side to strike them.

Spray paint the candle holder gold

Stick the striker onto the bottom of the candle holder

IKEA candle holder hacked into gold match striker

IKEA candle holder hacked into gold match striker

See complete tutorial on my blog.

~ by Nadia of Preciously Me

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Adding storage in a Cape Cod-themed guest bedroom

Cape Cod-themed guest bedroom

I needed guest-friendly storage in a Cape Cod-themed guest bedroom. This took the better part of a month, after ripping out a dysfunctional and shallow (useless closet) that had been squeezed into the space by a previous owner.

I used:

  • Askvoll 3-drawer chest (plus an extra part from IKEA As-Is for the base)
  • Nornäs wardrobe
  • Soknedal mirror (hung inverted)
  • 2-pair Brattvag short legs

ikea hack materials for Cape Cod-themed guest bedroom

1. ASKVOLL

To cover the IKEA-drilled pull holes at the top of each Askvoll chest drawer, I cut pieces of 1/4” x 1 1/2” strips of wood trim and painted them with Valspar Cl133 Careless Whisper, Interior, Eggshell. I drilled center holes in each drawer, and used mercury glass knobs found at TJ Maxx. I left the white fronts white, and glued on my painted trim.

2. NORNÄS

I custom built and fit the upper storage above NORNÄS. I painted the bare wood parts with Valspar 773958 Ultra White (right off the shelf). I ordered 4 pc. of 1/4” thick mirror 13 7/8” x 13 7/8” and glued these in to the door’s panels. I applied the same trim and knob as the chest.

As I mentioned, the storage on top of NORNÄS I custom built to finish out the height of the inverted mirror. One could always find a stock item of the right dimension to create this storage, or add a couple of shelves over it.

I am adding am antique bronze adornment in the upper mirror blank this weekend to “dress” it up a bit.

Because the mirror and dresser have “slick” finishes to them, I had to do some sanding prior to painting.

I also had 1/4” pencil edge glass cut to fit the chest top to protect the paint.

cape cod storage-1

cape cod storage-2

WARNING!!! If you want to apply raised trim on NORNÄS, be sure NOT to apply it to the outside edge of the door. I did, and I had to remove it because the door would not open!!!

~ by Baer

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