But Wifey Boss, I NEED a gaming table

I love DnD, card games, and quick board games. However, with a 2-year-old, space is at a premium. Selling this “set-up” as a storage place and part-time gaming table is a good win with the Partner.

The hack took a day, give or take a few hours. It costs around $300. The 2 KALLAX units were the biggest expense, so get those on sale, if you can.

What I like most about this gaming table is it’s got some good space. It’s tall, so the bar stool height encourages people to move and be active. Storage is KEY.

IKEA items:

• IKEA KALLAX 2×4 (two of them)

Other materials and tools:

• 4 large, wide casters/ wheels
• Base wood board (I used a heavier wood composite since most of the stress will be on this area. Can be whatever, as it’s mostly unseen. See below for sizing)
• Long table top (I used an IKEA table top, would suggest against this. Too flimsy to cut. Local Lowes or Home Depot will have a better selection)
• 10 toggle latch clamps
• 12 (ish) Screws (3-4 inches)

Tools:

• Drill
• Screwdriver
• Saw

How to hack a gaming table:

Build the 2 Kallax, put aside.

Cut the base board to the size of the width of the Kallax times 2, plus double the thickness of your top table. Base board should be flush with the Kallax when assembled.

Match the corners of the Kallax to the corners of the base board. Drill and screw down. Attach the base board to the top of the Kallax for ease of build.

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Related: Make an arcade coffee table

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Screw on casters to the “bottom” of the base board (which will be the top while upside down right now)

GET A BUDDY: Flip the build over onto the casters. Be sure they are LOCKED to avoid rolling. The Kallax is super light, but the base board should NOT be, thus the buddy system.

Cut the table top to the width of the Kallax, and the desired length. I matched the length of my table top to the depth of the Kallax + width of the table top. This means that, when stored, it will slide down even with the Kallax.

If you are looking for longer table top, just know the table top will not lay flush in “storage mode”, but there could be cool applications for a sticking up section.

Test your build so far by sliding your table top into the open space between the Kallaxs (Kallaxi?). They should be secure, but not scraping. A little wiggle is ok.

Place your table tops as desired (likely connected, but I’m not the boss of you) and mark centerlines for toggle clamps. Two on each Kallax, each side (so 4 total on each side) and one across each side of the table divide. (This holds the table top to the Kallax and then to each other)

Screw on the toggle latch clamps. The hooks should be on the table tops’ sides, the clamp parts on the side of the Kallax. These NEED to be tight when secured. The table to table clamps can be any combination you want. Getting the clamps lined up and screwed on straight while avoiding the screws already involved in the Kallax system is tricky.

And there you have it! A gaming table that has storage for kids toys (on the front) and your gaming books and boxes (in the back, facing the wall).

Looking back, I would have loved to add a large TV in the middle of the table top (for DnD maps), but the framing would have added width to the table and not have been as compact (which I needed). I wish I knew enough of building to maybe have a way to allow more of an edge on all 4 sides, not just 2. The clamps made this impossible, but I am still looking for future builds.

Also: would have loved to use swing arms to slide the table tops out from their storage space instead of having to lift them up and lock in place. But I’m not a smart man and this task was too technical for me (is that even possible?)

This hack has a lot of expanded potential. This is a great jumping off point, and I’d love to see if anyone can use it to make a more simplified/ extra version. Cause I’d love to make another one with a bit extra.

Besides this gaming table, I also made this feeding and water stand for my rather large dog.

~ by Nick Thomas from Bel Air, Md

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Hackers Help: Stacked BILLY bookshelves?

Has anyone stacked BILLY bookshelves one on top of another? I’m thinking of laying them down on their side and stacking one on top of the other (I only have 2).

BILLY | IKEA.com

I just don’t know if the bottom shelf will support the weight of another BILLY bookshelf being laid on top of it as well as whatever I put in the shelves and a 47 inch TV on top of the whole thing?

Has anyone tried this with success?

Thanks very much,

Sandra

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45 Tools You Should* Own

We get a lot of questions about what tools people should own and they only seem to pick up steam as we approach Father’s Day (are us dads really that predictable? Never mind, don’t answer that). “Should” is a strong term because what you need is very personal to the types of projects that you take on and how much budget/space you’re willing/able to dedicate to your tools. Also, I should note that Sherry uses every single tool that I do, so they also can make good Mother’s Day gifts… assuming your lady didn’t ask you for breakfast in bed and you got her a router. That might go over about as well as a vacuum cleaner or a toaster.

Anyway, back to the much-asked-about tool rundown. Rather than completely dodging the “can you share a big list of all of your favorite tools in one place” question, here’s what I’ve done. I looked through everything that I’ve accumulated over the years and picked out what I think are great basic tools and tool-related supplies to consider having. Some are completely unsurprising (hammer, duh) but others are easy to overlook items that come in handy a lot more than you’d think. So whether you’re just starting your collection or you’re looking to fill a gap in your (or your favorite dad’s) tool arsenal, here it goes.

The items linked are, in most cases, the same exact tool we own (or the current model of it). Or if they no longer sell something, or I’m not 100% satisfied with what I own, I’ve linked to what I would buy today. I’ve broken these 45 items into four groups:

1. Power Tools
2. Basic Manual Tools
3. Tools for Measuring, Leveling, & More
4. Things To Have Around Your Workspace

They’re meant to cover your bases for basic home maintenance and building projects. I have NOT included tools for specific projects like painting, tiling, drywalling, etc. I figured that might start to get overwhelming and 45 already seemed like a lot. I’m sure I’ve probably forgotten something (and you may have other opinions about what constitutes a “must have” tool) but, again, I didn’t want this list to get too overwhelming. I can definitely come back with a tool breakdown for specific projects like tiling or drywalling another time if you guys think that would be helpful.

Speaking of which, keep in mind that we accumulated these tools over several years. Please don’t interpret this as a shopping list that should be immediately added to your Amazon cart. Buying tools as you need them is one of the best ways to go. It’ll will ensure that you’re getting the item that best fits your current need – and you may be able to afford nicer items if you spread out your purchases over months and years.

Power Tools

I was once very intimidated by power tools – especially saws – but now I love having the right ones on hand to tackle tons of projects with more speed and accuracy than I could accomplish by hand.

1. Power Drill/Driver: From building furniture to hanging heavy stuff on the wall, this is my MOST USED tool. Don’t forget a battery and charger if you don’t already have one.
2. Drill/Driver Set: I’ve liked having several screw heads and drill bits all in one small kit, including masonry bits!
3. Hammer Drill: A corded drill is helpful for projects that need a bit more oomph, and making it a hammer drill helps if you ever need to drill into brick, stone, or concrete.
4. Nail Gun: This battery-powered nail gun is so ridiculously easy and convenient for building projects or adding trim.
5. Miter Saw: This is the closest to my hand-me-down saw, but it boasts a helpful sliding feature for cutting wider boards. This is my MOST USED SAW.
6. Table Saw: This current version of my table saw is great for ripping boards (like flooring) if you need them narrower.
7. Circular Saw: Great for cutting large materials like plywood. I’ve been using mine like crazy at the beach house. Only wish it were cordless like this one.
8. Dremel Multimax: I don’t use this super often, but it’s great for small jobs in tight spaces – especially with the blade that cuts metal.
9. Jig Saw: This comes in handy when cutting holes in the middle of materials, or when you aren’t cutting a straight line.
10. Palm Sander: A power sander can make quick work of removing finishes or roughing up surfaces for painting. I personally like ones with a pointed tip for getting into corners.

Basic Manual Tools

Let’s move on to the easy (and affordable!) hand tools. These are the types of tools you could also purchase as a kit if you’re starting from scratch (this looks like a good one) but I’ve included a few extra items (like #4 and #8) that I use more than you’d expect.

1. Large Hammer: This one does the job, it’s only $7, and the orange handle makes it easy to spot.
2. Small Hammer: We keep a lightweight hammer in a kitchen drawer for quick tasks, like hanging picture frames.
3. Rubber Mallet: When tapping a tight board into place, this mallet’s white head won’t scuff (or leave a dent).
4. Nail Punch: This is handy for setting nail heads flush into trim or building projects.
5. Screwdriver Set: Call me old-fashioned, but I like having a small set of these handy in my shed and in the kitchen.
6. Hex Key Set: This way you don’t have to keep every Allen wrench that comes with your IKEA furniture.
7. Channellock Pliers: I find these V-groove pliers offer a tighter grip than the flat Channellocks.
8. Pry Bar: Super handy for pulling off trim or removing really tough nails.
9. Needlenose Pliers: This is another tool we keep handy in the kitchen for grabbing or prying small objects.
10. Metal Snips: These cut thin metal and are great for work with ducting (they cut floral wire & picture wire too).
11. Ratchet & Socket Set: These can make fast work of removing or tightening bolts.
12. Adjustable Wrenches: A set of small lightweight wrenches is a nice complement to Channellocks, especially in tight spaces.

Tools For Measuring, Leveling, & More

These types of tools get less glory than the ones that do the smashing and screwing, but I find many of these to be the true lifesavers of our projects (I’ve proclaimed my love for #12 on our podcast more than once).

1. Metal Yardstick: Good for measuring, but also to use as a straight edge when marking.
2. Tape Measure: I’ve always found this tape measure to be comfortable and easy to use. You may also want a smaller version in the car for measuring furniture or other items on the go.
3. Rafter Square: Great for keeping things square when building, or marking 45-degree angle cuts.
4. 24″ Level: You may need something longer, but this easy-to-grip level does the job fine for most tasks.
5. 9″ Level: A smaller magnetic level like this is great for tight spaces and household tasks like leveling art.
6. Laser Level: This simple laser level has helped us hang picture collages & curtain rods for over a decade.
7. Utility Knife: A handy knife like this is good for lots of tasks, including cutting drywall .
8. 5-in-1 Saw: I own quite the mish-mash of hand saws, so this 5-in-1 would be my pick if I were starting over.
9. Sanding Blocks: We keep a variety around to smooth rough cuts or rough up surfaces we’re painting.
10. Caulk Gun: This pretty basic caulk gun is our go-to for any, well, caulking.
11. Chalk Line: Use this to mark straight lines on objects (like plywood) or on floors too large for a straight edge.
12. Trigger Clamps: These are my favorite clamps to hold materials in place while working on them.
13. Handi-Clamps: It’s also good to have these smaller and quicker clamps handy too.

Things To Have Around Your Workspace

Last but not least, I wanted to include some other supplies you’d probably appreciate having around – especially if you have a workshop, shed, or dedicated spot in your garage for all of your tools.

1. Safety Goggles: We keep a pair (or 2!) around to protect our peepers when using power tools.
2. Dust Masks: Some jobs may require something heavier duty, but these are great for most tasks.
3. Saw Horses: These lightweight collapsible saw horses can prop up wood while you cut it – or create a mobile workspace.
4. Pegboard: Some sort of wall organizer is a HUGE help, some (like this larger one) come with bins too.
5. Small Parts Organizers: A good system to organize your screws, nails, etc is key. This one’s nice because it’s portable.
6. Hand Vacuum: This is on my wish list since I want an easy / fast way to tidy up my workspace.
7. Portable Tool Organizer: When I use a tool bag stuff gets lost on the bottom, so I’d love to switch to one of these bucket jockeys.
8. Work Lights: It never hurts to have additional light sources. Here’s another versatile option.
9. Wet/Dry Vac: A bigger vacuum like this one’s great for big demo or clean up projects, as well as day-to-day workspace cleaning.
10. Dust Pan Set: Can you tell I’m big on cleaning? Don’t forget this old-school standby.

If you want to read more about tools, check out this post we did called 5 Power Tools That Changed How We DIY (it includes a couple not on this list!) and this post about how we organized our shed.

***P.S. If you’d like bonus photos, tips, project ideas, and behind-the-scenes info delivered straight to your inbox, click here to subscribe to our free newsletter. Last week we shared an easy way to upgrade air vents and this week’s is all about an exciting duplex development that just happened yesterday morning.***

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Stripped down these IKEA items and the results are fab

I started with two HEMNES pieces — a bedroom end table and the wooden TV stand in black. I picked the TV Console for the size and storage. It also fit my wall proportions perfectly and the drawers give me ample room to keep DVDs, games, controllers as well as extra cables and other sundry items.

I call it the “Rustic Hemnes” hack. It isn’t world changing or revolutionary but I did it because I wanted my wooden TV stand and end table to have a different feel to it than others with the same series from IKEA.

The bedroom end table I picked because all the other end tables I looked at were just way too short for my purposes. I wanted a good height that I could keep next to my sofa and be usable. A nice cup of tea and a place to put my tablet or Chromebook. Since I had also always kept my phone on my old end table with an older IKEA Nordemarke wireless charger I decided that I would add one into the end table to make it a bit more sleek and aesthetically pleasing.

Starting with the end table I took the IKEA hole saw set FIXA and drilled out the spot for the RALLEN charger. Do this before any other sanding so that when you take off the finish you will have a nice smooth edge.

Next, I sanded down through the finish on both the tops and the drawer faces making sure to leave the edges untouched. This leaves a nice finished edge to the project. Once the factory finish is gone I resanded the tops down again with a high grit paper to give it a nice super smooth surface. To make this easy I used a belt sander starting with a 60 grit then a 100 grit belt for the final sanding. Follow each step with a wipe down to get rid of any loose dust or grit.

I picked a Minwax stain color called Ipswitch to put some light coloring into it. This is because the next upgrade to my place will be the installation of hardwood floors, most likely an Ash color so I think the coloring will go well with it and if not then it’s just a re-sand and restain!

Apply stain with a foam brush in light coats letting dry between coats till you get the color you want. Remember you can add more color but you can’t take it off.

Two coats of Minwax Semi-gloss Polyurethane later letting each coat FULLY dry. Between coats, sand with some 220 grit sandpaper using a palm sander to smooth out the finish and get rid of any air bubbles and high spots. Again, follow each step with a wipe down to get rid of any loose dust or grit.

The finished product is something I am very happy with. Very happy indeed. Rustic HEMNES looks great visually but I am not done with the project yet!

Now comes the issue of the rat’s nest of cables I had behind the TV stand. TV, cable, Nintendo, Google Chrome cast, Kindle Fire Stick, HDMI switch, router — that makes for a lot of cables to wrangle!

I can’t stand clutter and things being out of place (no matter what my Mother says) so I came up with a very simple way to power everything with just a single cable leading from the unit to the outlet in the corner.

I went to my local computer store (you can get the same at a Home Depot or other hardware store) and picked up a 4’ long 12 outlet power strip. This I mounted to the back frame of the HEMNES frame just below the openings.

Once mounted I was able to simply use cable ties to shorten and run all the power cables to the plethora of outlets now available. After that, I took the time to cable tie all the other video and sound cables to make it a much neater area. Best of all when you look at the unit instead of several cables running to the outlet I have just the single one.

So far the response from my friends that have come over has been great! One of them just put the same unit into his new house’s living room. He loves the idea but is upset since I did it he feels that he can’t now. Even my folks like the results. Mom said she couldn’t envision what I had in mind when I was telling her about the project but she says she really likes the results.

Also, I guess IKEA is also liking the results as they have JUST released a white stained bottom with a natural wood top in the HEMNES line!

After doing all this work I would change one big thing. I would do my sanding outside!! Due to weather, I was forced to sand the wooden TV stand inside and I am STILL (weeks later) cleaning dust up!

Basic steps to follow

I did my sanding BEFORE I built the end table but the TV console was already built when I sanded the top.

I recommend using a belt sander with 60 grit paper to take off the original finish followed by 100 grit to smooth it out.

IMPORTANT TIP!

Make sure you keep everything clean!! Any dust can cause issues in the stain and especially in the finish stage!!

Apply stain with a foam brush in light coats letting dry between coats till you get the color you want. Remember you can add more color but you can’t take it off.

Apply polyurethane with a foam brush as well to help minimize air bubbles. Let it FULLY DRY then sand with a high grit like 220 wipe clean and then proceed to the next coat. I did two coats.

Overall the project should take 3 days. Sanding only takes about an hour but waiting for the stain and polyurethane to dry can not be rushed.

IKEA Item/Parts list:

• RÄLLEN Integrated wireless charger, black $12.99 Article Number: 403.602.17
• FIXA 5-piece hole saw set $4.99 Article Number: 203.023.32
• HEMNES Nightstand, black-brown $69.00 Article Number: 901.212.34
• HEMNES wooden TV stand, black-brown $199.00 Article Number: 303.345.06
• Inland 4’ long 12 outlet power strip $20 Home Depot
• Sandpaper assorted grits $8.00
• Assorted foam brushed $5.00
• Minwax Stain $5.00
• Minwax Semi Gloss Polyurethane $12.00

Already own the belt and sheet sander so not an extra cost!

~ by Finn

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DIY Server Cabinet using IKEA parts

My hack is a DIY server cabinet using IKEA STUVA and BESTÅ frames. Obviously, the first thing I needed to do was to get an equipment rack but the more important consideration here is the WAF.

IKEA items used:

• IKEA STUVA frame (60x50x128 cm)
• IKEA BESTÅ frame (60x20x64 cm)
• IKEA GLASSVIK doors
• Soft close hinges for GLASSVIK doors

Other materials:

• Universal rack stand
• Pine board
• Flat metal brackets

I took a trip to IKEA and found out that the IKEA STUVA range is actually quite perfect for what I need. I bought the larger cabinet for AUD $70 at that time. This comes in white. Matches the wall colour. Wife is happy.

I also chanced upon 2 of the IKEA GLASSVIK doors with smoke glass at the “As-Is” corner, selling for AUD $28 each. The GLASSVIK doors are intended to fit the BESTÅ frames but these will also perfectly fit the STUVA.

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Related: Forget metal. Here’s a wooden server closet

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Then I needed the hinges as the doors do not come with one. These cost me $10 for a 2-pack. So total cost for 2 doors is $20.

The IKEA STUVA with dimension 600mm (W) x 500mm (D) x 1280mm (H) is just nice for me to insert the Samson universal rack into the cabinet. But alas it is not quite deep enough. With doors fitted to the STUVA, I can just close the door but it is just too tight for comfort. I would like another 150mm spare space at the back of the cabinet for cablings and the like.

To add depth, I bought 2 of the BESTÅ frame 600mm (W) x 200mm (D) x 640mm (H). I figured if I could stack these 2 frames one on top another, I will get 1280mm (H) which is exactly what the STUVA frame is. So I reckon I could Frankenstein the 3 pieces together to fit the rack better. So rightly or wrongly that is what I thought at the time.

DIY IKEA server cabinet instructions

First thing I did was to cut a piece of laminated pine board to size. The plan was to fasten the STUVA frame and the BESTÅ frames on the same level footing.

Next, I fastened the BESTÅ frame base and STUVA frame base onto the pine wood board and assembled the rest of the wall pieces to the bases.

I also reinforced the internal side walls using some flat metal brackets.

The back panel particleboard did not fully cover the bottom part of the rack. That turned out fine because that is where my cables enter into the rack.

I drill a 20mm hole at the top left for the cabling connection to my router which I wanted to place outside of the rack.

Then, I installed the GLASSVIK doors.

The last thing was to insert the universal rack stand into the server cabinet.

See complete tutorial of the DIY server cabinet here.

~ by Joseph Lo

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#98: Why Some Houses We Designed Never Saw The Light Of Day

A few years ago we embarked on a design project with a local builder that we were very excited about… but it all fell apart for reasons we never anticipated (and it still bums us out). We’re sharing that story this week, along with the surprising way Sherry scored an awesome secondhand find for the beach house. We also dive into your feedback about houses that are too big, including some conflicting sentiments about children and large houses. Plus, how we pulled off a stress-free game night with friends and the details behind our new collaboration with A Beautiful Mess.

You can download this episode from Apple Podcasts, Google Play, Stitcher, TuneIn Radio, and Spotify – or listen to it below! Then use this page to check out any links, notes, or photos we referenced. Note: If you’re reading in a feed reader, you may have to click through to the post to see the player.

What’s New

• Those are the metal outdoors chairs Sherry described scoring on Facebook Marketplace. They’re (surprisingly) super comfortable – and just need a coat of fresh paint to be fully ready for their beach house close up.
• I even tricked Sherry into modeling some of the shorts that she was digging in the episode (these are the shorts, here’s the shirt).

• And for context, below is a screen shot of the listing for driftwood where Sherry spotted them hanging out in the background. She’s like a heat seeking missile, but for furniture.

• She also referenced some of her other finds from Facebook Marketplace, like the marble-topped dresser currently in the beach house foyer (more about finding that here) and the inlay-dresser in one of the beach house’s bedrooms (which Sherry was able to repair herself!).

• And if you’re looking to host a game night, here are the rules for Mafia that we (loosely) followed. And you can see Chris Loves Julia’s full round-up of game night games if you’re looking for more. Thanks for the suggestion CLJ!

Podcast E-Course

• If you wanna check out the Launch A Podcast E-Course that we created with A Beautiful Mess, you can sign up for it at that link. It’s a go-at-your-own-pace course that is basically like a series of blog posts (plus photos, audio, & video). It also includes a Q + A board where you can interact with other students and the instructors (us and Jeremy Larson!).
• It covers everything from audio recording and editing to figuring out the best format and branding for your show – as well as how to get it on iTunes and tips for growing your audience (and even approaching advertisers). You can also read more about it on ABM’s post about the new course.
• Plus, if you sign up with the code YHL15, you’ll get 15% off the course!
• Lastly, I mentioned that I’d link to our written series on starting, growing, and monetizing a blog if you’re interested.

Too Big Houses, Part 2

• If you missed the original discussion about our recent realization that we just don’t need as much space as we have (we overshot it on the whole house size thing for sure), you can catch it in Episode #95 – and you can also take the polls there too! There are so many other things to consider besides size when you’re house hunting, so it felt good to say it out loud back in that episode and to hear from you guys about it so we could share your thoughts in this episode.
• Speaking of the feedback on that first episode about it, you can dive into these comments on Instagram and these comments on Facebook. So many interesting points and thoughts.
• Above is a photo from back when we designed a Homearama showhouse in 2014 (we did the navy one in the foreground, which you can tour here). You can also see the rooms we designed for charity in this year’s Homearama here.
• Below is the giant couch we spotted in one of the other showhouses this year that Sherry mentioned wanting to roll around on. I’m kinda bummed she didn’t because a “Sherry For Scale” picture would’ve been really useful about now.

We’re Digging

• Above the clothes Sherry got from Old Navy recently, including some of those non-black items (gasp!): 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6
• To check out Story Pirates, that adult-friendly kid podcast that we’re loving, you can learn more about it on their website (or just download it wherever you listen to podcasts). Below is a YouTube video they made of one of the songs from a recent episode, if you want an idea of what it’s like.

If you’re looking for something we’ve dug in a past episode but don’t remember which show notes to click into, here’s a master list of everything we’ve been digging from all of our past episodes.

And lastly, a big thank you to Room & Board for sponsoring this episode. You can check out all of their furniture (including their new vanities) at roomandboard.com/YHL. You can also sign up for their free catalog at the bottom of the page for zero-dollar inspo that comes right to your mailbox.

Thanks for listening, guys!

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How to go to the bathroom in a wedding dress: An IKEA blue bag hack

Well, I got married a few weeks ago (in a mermaid wedding dress) and I was really worried about going to the bathroom and not being able to … handle myself. Someone helping or watching me going to the bathroom on my wedding day? Not being able to have free hands to use the toilet paper? Or even worse if my period decides to show? NO WAY! Some stuff like this bridal bathroom helper exists but are expensive just because it is wedding related.

My bridal bathroom helper hack costs about 0.80 euro and I did it the day before my wedding. It took only 3 minutes. What I like best is it’s almost free and allows me to make my life easier on my wedding day. So here is the hack.

IKEA items used:

• IKEA FRAKTA big blue bag

Other materials and tools:

• Scissors

How to hack a bridal bathroom helper:

1. Fold the IKEA blue bag.

2. Cut in the middle of the bag’s bottom. Careful: The hole must not be too big. It is better to cut a smaller hole and to enlarge it a bit later. It must be close to your body if you want it to work! I have large hips, DO NOT take my measurements as an example. Each body is different.

3. Step inside the bag, place your feet in the hole.

4. Put the large handles on your shoulders. If your hips do not fit through the hole, enlarge it a little bit. Again: just a bit! Your hips need to fit in the hole, but the closer the bag is to your body, the better.

5. You are ready.

6. The D Day: You can give this bag to your bridesmaids or leave it in the bathroom of your wedding venue.

When you need to go to the bathroom:

– Simply step inside the bag, your feet in the hole. You don’t need to remove your shoes! Pay attention to step in the hole, not in the bag if you don’t want to have a dirty wedding dress.

– Take the bottom of your dress and put it in the bag — all of it. Place the larger handles on your shoulders. You can also if you prefer, ask someone to just help you put the dress inside the bag and to leave you alone after.

– You are ready to go! Both hands are free to do whatever you need to do without anyone watching!

You can: Pull down and up your underwear yourself, change your period protection yourself, you can use the toilet paper yourself!

YEAY! Being a bride and having some privacy IS possible!

~ by Tina

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