Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Rose Gold Dressing Table

We decided to hack the KULLEN chest of drawers to add a unique aesthetic to a common item. The total cost of our rose gold dressing tabel came under £100. What we love most is the contrast of the rose gold against the white.

Materials:
  • Drawers: Ikea Kullen x 2
  • Worktop: B&Q (200cm x 40cm)
  • Acrylic Vinyl: Amazon (Rose Gold)
  • Mirror: Amazon (60cm)
  • Stool: Amazon
  • Accessories: Primark

How to hack your rose gold dressing table:

Assemble Kullen drawers, before inserting drawers wrap the dividers with the acrylic vinyl. Insert the drawers. Secure worktop using screws or adhesive tape.

rose gold dressing table

See more.

~ by Danny Cooper

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Rose Gold Dressing Table published first on www.ikeahackers.net

Monday, July 30, 2018

Super easy cat tower with IKEA ELVARLI

I’d been looking to create a freestanding cat tower for my high-flying cat, Frank, for a long time but was disappointed with the ready-made options out there, and some of the DIY projects look a little too, well … DIY. It needed to be tall, freestanding (since it needed to be installed in front of our sliding glass doors), very secure since he likes to catapult himself on and off of all our furniture, and very good-looking since it was going in the living room where we spend most of our time. Tall order, right?

Super Easy ELVARLI cat tower

According to some older IKEA hacks, the STOLMEN system was a go-to for cat tree DIYers back in the day so the new STOLMEN equivalent, ELVARLI, was a natural choice for this cat tower project. Once I started playing around with the configurations of the ELVARLI I realized that by simply changing the orientation of the shelves I could get the exact results I wanted: bring the posts in together and attach the shelves them at the long edge of the shelf instead of the short end, and you’re in business!

Super Easy ELVARLI cat tower

Since the ELVARLI shelves were too deep for my needs I opted for the narrower SVALNAS shelves which also have a nice bamboo finish (and are slightly cheaper!). Honestly, any shelf would work with this set-up, even just plywood boards.

I staggered the top two shelves to allow for easier jumping between levels, and I picked up a few cheap SIVESTED doormats so Frank has something to grip as he flies on and off of the shelves.

IKEA items used:
  • Two ELVARLI posts
  • 3 ELVARLI brackets (each a pack of two)
  • 2 SVALNAS shelves (9.75″x24″)
  • 1 SVALNAS shelf (9.75″x31.75″)
  • 3 small SIVESTED doormats
Other materials and tools:
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Scissors
  • 2 screws to attach ELVARLI posts to ceiling
  • 8 small screws (for attaching SIVESTED to the SVALNAS shelves, about 0.5″ long)

Hack instructions for the ELVARLI cat tower

1. Assemble the ELVARLI posts according to the IKEA directions.

2. Install the first ELVARLI post where you want your tree. Attach the first post to the ceiling with screws and tighten at the floor as directed in the IKEA directions.

3. Install the second ELVARLI post opposite the first post 9.75″ away. The posts should be facing each other the same way the IKEA directions indicate but make sure the distance between the two posts is 9.75″ to accommodate the narrower dimensions of the SVALNAS shelf. Attach the second post to the ceiling with screws and tighten at the floor as directed in the IKEA directions.

Super Easy ELVARLI cat tower

4. Install the ELVARLI shelf brackets at the 28″, 46″, and 64″ points in the posts according to the IKEA directions.

5. Open the first SVALNAS 9.75″x24″ shelf and discard the accompanying metal brackets but set aside the extra screws (four 100365 screws). Slide the shelf into the ELVARLI bracket at the top (64″) from left to right until the left end of the shelf is aligned with the left edge of the bracket, leaving about 10″ of the shelf overhanging the bracket on the right end.

6. Use a pencil to mark the locations at either end of the bracket where the shelf will be attached through the existing bracket holes. Remove the shelf and use a drill to pre-drill holes where the marks were made.

7. Insert the shelf again as in step 5 and use the extra ELVARLI screws to attach the SVALNAS shelf to the ELVARLI bracket.

8. Open the second SVALNAS 9.75″x24″ shelf and discard the accompanying metal brackets but set aside the extra screws (four 100365 screws ). Slide the shelf into the ELVARLI bracket in the middle (46″) from left to right until the right end of the shelf is aligned with the right edge of the bracket, leaving about 10″ of the shelf overhanging the bracket on the left end.

9. Use a pencil to mark the locations at either end of the bracket where the shelf will be attached through the existing bracket holes. Remove the shelf and use a drill to pre-drill holes where the marks were made.

10. Insert the shelf again as in step 8 and use the extra ELVARLI screws to attach the SVALNAS shelf to the ELVARLI bracket.

11. Open the SVALNAS 9.75″x31.75″ shelf and discard the accompanying metal brackets but set aside the extra screws (four 100365 screws). Slide the shelf into the ELVARLI bracket at the bottom (28″) from left to right until the shelf is centered on the bracket, leaving about 9″ of the shelf overhanging each end of the bracket.

12. Use a pencil to mark the locations at either end of the bracket where the shelf will be attached through the existing bracket holes. Remove the shelf and use a drill to pre-drill holes where the marks were made.

13. Insert the shelf again as in step 11 and use the extra ELVARLI screws to attach the SVALNAS shelf to the ELVARLI bracket.

14. Cut the SIVESTED mats so they fit on the 9.75″ wide shelf, leaving four tabs on each mat to wrap around the shelves, making sure to stagger the cuts on the two mats for the 24″ shelves. See image.

Super Easy ELVARLI cat towerSuper Easy ELVARLI cat tower

15. Put mats on shelves, wrapping the overhanging tabs underneath each shelf. Use a drill to make a pilot hole through the center of each tab and into the shelves. Screw the small screws through tabs and into the bottom of the shelves.

Super Easy ELVARLI cat towerSuper Easy ELVARLI cat tower

Needless to say, we’re all pretty happy with our cat tower! I’m considering installing a cat hammock underneath the bottom shelf, but one hack at a time…

Super Easy ELVARLI cat tower

This cat tower project took me about an hour altogether and all the pieces together cost $142.97, plus a few cents for some extra screws (but I managed to get one of my SVALNAS from as-is for $3 and found an extra doormat abandoned in the parking lot, so only $125 for me – as-is for the win!). It was as easy as assembling an ELVARLI shelf system. I was able to do it alone but it might go faster with help from a friend when steadying the posts, aligning things, etc.

~ Lia

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Sunday, July 29, 2018

#105: Sherry Vs. The Bathtub, Duplex Edition

We seem to have a sore spot with tubs, and the duplex renovation has proven to be no exception. So today we’re sharing how a strategic money-saving decision saved us 30% off a huge renovation line item, but sent us on a tub-induced stress spiral. We’ve also got some exciting updates about painting our brick house white, our gross backyard experiment to keep the deer from eating our plants, and whether Sherry is still known as Laura in Cape Charles. We dive into the pros & cons of laundry location too – plus we explain when to choose a variety of wall colors for your house (and when one whole-house color can actually work like a charm).

You can download this episode from Apple PodcastsGoogle PlayStitcherTuneIn Radio, and Spotify – or listen to it below! Then use this page to check out any links, notes, or photos we referenced. Note: If you’re reading in a feed reader, you may have to click through to the post to see the player.

What’s New

  • That’s a shot of one of our tubs in place, which – along with the rest of the plumbing – got installed relatively smoothly despite all of the stress and planning ahead of time.
  • Below is a photo Sherry took as they retrieved our second tub from the very top shelf at Home Depot. I’m so impressed she spotted it up there!
  • By the way, the tub we chose was the Delta Classic 400 since it had a relatively straight front (not too weird and curvy) and was a good price.

  • And of course, the victory photo of having successfully procured both tubs. It cracks me up that Sherry had Sean take this photo.

Updates

  • If you missed the original discussion (and poll!) about painting our brick house white, you can catch it in Episode #101. And below are some of the renderings we received that helped sway the polls on Instagram.

  • Also, this is the paint we’re planning to use: Rombio BioDomus II Mineral Paint. The warranty and the difference from normal paint is really compelling to us. More details to come once we get further along in the process!
  • If you missed the discussion of our gross “experiment” in the backyard to save our new landscaping from the deer, you can hear that in Episode #99.
  • Now we’re in our third week of using Liquid Fence and we haven’t seen any signs of deer nibbling. They suggest you apply it weekly for the first two weeks, then once per month. We’ve done it weekly for the first three and this big jug still has some putrescence left in it!

  • And of course, if you want to hear the original story of Sherry being called Laura, it’s in Episode #59. It’s a personal favorite of mine.

Listener Questions

  • Pictured above is our upstairs laundry room at our home in Richmond, and our downstairs laundry area in the mudroom at the beach house.
  • And as promised for Debbie, below is a poll about which laundry location you prefer (not necessarily which one you have – since we know there are a lot of other laundry situations out there like garage or basement locations, which seem to be less coveted).

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

  • Sherry also thought it was worth asking a slightly tweaked version of that question – with the beach house scenario in mind -to see how much the results changed. You know, where sandy feet and towels may be more prevalent than in your typical home. That fact certainly changed our preferred location.

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

  • And as Lauren described in her question, our beach is painted all one color (Sherwin William’s White Heron) while our home in Richmond has a variety of neutrals throughout. Here’s a sampling of the difference:

  • Like we described in the episode, part of the decision was just practical. We painted – and repainted! – our Richmond house ourselves over the years, but we contracted painters to paint the beach house all at once as part of that reno. If we were doing our Richmond house all over again, we’d probably use fewer colors, but we don’t regret the variety, especially since it helped us land on some of our favorite neutrals.
  • We use Benjamin Moore’s Edgecomb Gray in a lot of the spaces that get great natural light, like our master bedroom (below), office, dining room, and foyer.

We’re Digging

  • This is the inflatable stand-up paddleboard that I got for Father’s Day that we’ve been using the heck out of this summer. My favorite is when we all steal away to the beach around sunset and get to take wonderfully clichéd pictures like the one above.
  • Our SUP is 11-feet long and there’s a slightly cheaper 10.5-foot version, but since the 11-footer is the one we tried first-hand on that fateful Father’s Day, we trusted it better. Plus, since the water is super shallow and calm (this is the bay, not the ocean), I often have extra passengers with me!

  • I also strongly recommend grabbing the electric pump. It’s a LIFESAVER. It plugs right into the 12V charging port in your car (which I apparently still call the cigarette lighter) and it automatically shuts off when you’ve reached your desired PSI. Maybe this week I’ll try to Instagram a video of us inflating and deflating it so you can see how it works.

  • Also, since I know this is probably more SUP talk than you signed up for, here’s a link to the new mascara that Sherry discovered thanks to that helpful Target employee. It’s also on Amazon if that’s more your speed (the color she buys is “black” – surprise!). Sherry’s wearing it – and her Invisaglin – in our selfie below:

If you’re looking for something we’ve dug in a past episode, but don’t remember which show notes to click into, here’s a master list of everything we’ve been digging from all of our past episodes.

And lastly, a big thank you to Grove Collaborative for sponsoring this episode. You get a free Mrs. Meyers Cleaning set and a 2-month VIP membership when you sign up at Grove.co/YHL and spend your first $20.

Thanks for listening, guys!

*This post contains affiliate links*

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Friday, July 27, 2018

Cheapest ever cable management hack

IKEA sells the SIGNUM Cable Management for $12.99, but the VARIERA plastic bag dispenser costs only $2.99.

IKEA items used:

Mount the VARIERA plastic bag dispenser under your desk and place your power strip with chargers and adapters into it. Thread the cables through the holes to plug into your devices. And you’re done.

Cable management with VARIERA plastic bag dispenser

Cable management with VARIERA plastic bag dispenser

~ by Vince

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Thursday, July 26, 2018

The Great Dirt-Moving Effort!

Every year it’s the same: I spend all winter being sad about the cold, and then spring and summer hit and I’m all like HOLD UP because that means I have to pick up where I left off with exterior work. The earlier I get to it the better because summers here are hot and muggy, but of course there are a finite number of hours in the day so the interior work slows way down. Which is sad, because the interior of my house is still…well, a work in progress, let’s say. A work in progress that’s occasionally frustrating to live in, that I have to force myself to de-prioritize during these warmer months because otherwise the exterior might, I dunno, get overtaken by weeds and die of neglect. Houses, man. Yards. They keep you busy. I do not recommend them if you value free time.

With so much work constantly happening both on the interior and exterior of the house, the backyard in particular has inched along veryyyy slowly. I’ve probably put more effort into the street-facing front and side gardens, primarily in the hope that a few decent-looking plants might distract from the…less charming aspects of my perpetually-being-renovated house. But the back? It’s basically a blank slate. I have a fence. I have some patchy grass. In terms of other amenities, my yard also offers a pile of chimney bricks, a steady supply of dog shit and toys laying around, a ton of irregular bluestone pieces, and a few scraggly plants I’ve stuck in the ground.

It’s not like I have acreage or anything, but I do have a really large yard for Kingston! It’s part of what I love about the house, but it’s also a lot to take care of. And a lot to figure out, because I want it to be a beautiful lush amazing (much more private!!!) paradise but I also find it kind of discouraging because of how much time and money I’ve already dumped into it.

Yes, you read that right. Those two pictures above are the products of thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of hard work. CAN’T YOU TELL? DO YOU FEEL MOTIVATED YET?!?

I guess I know it could be worse, because oh boy has it been worse! Sometimes when I’m out here feeling so sad and dejected about my barren landscape, I have to remind myself of how the majority of the yard was asphalt when I bought this place! The whole yard was covered in snow the first time I saw the house, so this actually came as a surprise at the first or second walk-through, but at that point I was too in love with the house for a little blacktop to scare me off.

“We’ll just get it removed!” I proclaimed with confidence.

And it did get removed…to the tune of about $2,000, if memory serves, because I have refused to think about it since. YIKES. It took 5 full days and multiple backhoes and excavators to get it done. The thing I didn’t totally realize at the time is that under the asphalt would be a layer of large gravel (item #4, if you wanna get all technical about it), so you have to remove a lot of material to get back down to something resembling clean-ish dirt.

Like, a lot a lot. About TWENTY dump trucks worth.

At the end, they did what they could to flatten everything out and left this attractive scene, which soon started to fill in with weeds. Sure, I’ll take it!

Then it rained. And rained a few more times. And that area that had been covered with asphalt? Turned into a very large, shallow pond. Which, in the winter, turned into a sheet of ice. It’s a shame that depth gets so lost in photos because it really doesn’t portray how bad this was!

The lumpy piles of dirt behind Mekko is all the grass I excavated out of the front garden by hand and then rolled back here in a wheelbarrow. I adorably thought this would solve the problem or at least improve things, but the dent it made was…negligible.

A little while later, I transported a couple pick-up truck loads of dirt from Bluestone Cottage’s front yard, since that yard needed to be graded down and this one needed to be graded up. “This’ll fix it!” I thought to myself again.

Not remotely.

At this point, the availability of free solutions had seemed to run out, and with the new fence in placereally wanted to start getting the backyard in shape! So I stuck the plastic stakes from Lowe’s into the ground and attached a long length of neon pink nylon twine between them, pulling VERY taught. This helped me see where the lowest points were and build up as needed. I considered getting a delivery of soil, but the delivery was kind of expensive, and even with a soil calculator (like this one!), I didn’t feel confident that I had any idea how much I actually needed. I also liked the idea of bringing it into the yard in manageable chunks rather than having the landscaping place deposit a mountain-sized pile that I’d have to just chip away at, blocking my driveway until it was all gone. Hauling it myself seemed, at the time, to make a lot of practical sense.

Not that long before, I got a new car—a practical Subaru SUV. I kept saying that perhaps a pick-up truck would be a better investment at least for this period in my life when hauling large and heavy things is such a regular occurrence, but everyone in my life seemed to think this was patently ridiculous. So instead I got this utility trailer, the bed of which is slightly over 4×8 feet, meaning it’s perfect for drywall and plywood and lumber. I subsequently learned that the trailer is a complete pain in the ass, and difficult to steer in reverse, and in short order I managed to crunch both front corners of my bumper and a rearview mirror while trying to maneuver it. More recently the trailer became unhitched on a job site and smashed the trunk in, too. I hate that thing with the fire of a thousand suns. But also I need it. Because I didn’t buy the pick-up.

SO ANYWAY, now my still-new-ish car is super fucked and the trailer is not holding up annnnddddddd next time maybe I should listen less to those around me when it comes to my driving/hauling needs. It’s all very stupid. That’s not what we’re here to talk about though. We’re talking about the much more exciting topic of dirt.

I took my jacked up car with my jacked up utility trailer to a local landscaping place, where they sell fill dirt. Things like this (mulch, gravel, etc) are usually sold by the “yard,” which you can think of as a 3′ x 3′ x 3′ cube. There are different types of dirt—topsoil is higher quality and full of nutrients and shit like that, and lesser soils are cheaper and good for fill but not great for growing gardens and stuff. I decided to start with cheaper fill, and then finish off with a layer of better topsoil.

About 1 yard of fill fits in that trailer, or around 2,000 pounds, so thus commenced my new weekend tradition of getting as many loads into the yard as I could before it became either completely unbearable or the place closed. Because my trailer doesn’t have a hydraulic lift or anything fancy like that, I had to drive the trailer into the yard, climb in, unload the soil a shovel-full at a time, and then rake it out and level it.

Each time it seemed like SO MUCH DIRT and each time all that dirt barely made a dent.

So I kept having to go back to get more dirt.

Bring in the trailer, shovel it all out, spread, and go back for more. Did I mention how hot and muggy summers are here? This is the worst game I’ve ever played.

This was also getting expensive. A yard of fill from the landscaping place was about $45, so all of a sudden I’m spending literal hundreds of dollars and an obscene amount of effort to bring a bunch of crappy soil into my yard. THE JOYS OF HOMEOWNERSHIP!

After a couple weekends of this, I was bringing demolition debris of some variety to the dump, as I do. And then I saw something over yonder, in the distance.

Mounds. Mounds of dirt. JOE! TELL ME ABOUT THAT DIRT!

Joe is my friend at the dump. I like to bring him a milkshake if I go. Joe likes milkshakes.

Turns out, it’s county compost! From the county! Made at the dump! Literal garbage dirt! This is the dirt for meeeeeee!

It’s actually kind of cool—if you look closely at those mounds, on the far right there’s a pile of newly deposited branches and leaves and stuff. This is where the county’s yard waste bags end up, food scraps from the restaurant composting program, etc. There, they fester for a while, until enough of it has broken down to go into pile #2, and so on. Once it’s gone through this sequence, it goes into that red machine you see on the far left, which essentially grinds it up, breaking down any remaining branches or things that decompose slowly. Then it goes into another pile and continues to brew until somebody who might be me buys it. Cool. Gross. I like it.

Because it’s all compost, I assume this soil is actually much better than the soil I’d been getting, AND it was $35/ton (which is about a yard), so $10 cheaper than the landscaping place.

So I got a load.

Drive it home. Deposit the dirt. Spread the dirt. Go back again.

And again.

And again.

Also, again.

All told, I repeated this procedure THIRTY TIMES. Which means I moved, out of the trailer and into the yard by hand, roughly SIXTY THOUSAND POUNDS of dirt. Just dirt. It was SO much more than I anticipated.

This has to be the least satisfying way I have ever managed to blow through more than a thousand dollars. I stopped keeping track because it was just too depressing.

BUT HARD WORK PAYS OFF! JUST LOOK AT THIS OASIS I CREATED! It just feels like such a SANCTUARY from the outside world and…oh wait, sorry wrong slide. That’s Bunny William’s garden.

LOOK AT THIS OASIS I CREATED! LUSH! VERDANT! A TRUE OUTDOOR LIVING SPACE FIT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY!

Fortunately this is not a current picture, and things have improved somewhat steadily since that time. I’ve been terrible about sharing backyard progress, I think because I keep waiting for some part of it to look great. And what am I going to do, write a whole post about…moving 30 tons of dirt?

Then I decided that’s exactly what I’ll do, because progress is progress. No lie, it BLOWS that it took this much time and effort and money to get to this very barren depressing square 1, but a lot of landscaping work (hell, renovation work!) is a very long slog that only starts to feel good when all that slow progress accumulates to something that finally feels worthwhile. We have a couple of summers worth of work to catch up on, though, so in lieu of stunning After! images that are realistically probably a decade away, let’s just try to enjoy this whole process for the grueling and occasionally exciting operation that it is! I guess.


The Great Dirt-Moving Effort! published first on manhattan-nest.com

Portable shower tent for our long RV trips

Living in a 300 sq.ft. tiny home feels capacious after long trips in our 19 ft. long RV. To make the 100 sq.ft. home on wheels feel bigger, we shower outside using the RV’s external hot water faucet, our portable shower tent from an IKEA KURA bed tent, and a bracket on a magnet to hang the shower head. The shower tent dries quickly so you can hit the road with no delay! All for about $35. We bought a green polka dot tent several years ago for our RV. (Image below)

Portable shower tent for our long RV trips

Our choices this year for a portable KURA shower tent for friends with a new RV were pink or blue (blue below).

IKEA KURA tent | IKEA.com

Materials needed:
  • IKEA KURA bed tent $20
  • 16 feet Lightweight Nylon line/twine
  • 2 Rings of plastic or metal (like IKEA 1.5 inch plastic curtain rings or key rings)
  • 1 bungee cord 20 inches long
  • Magnets: 1.75-inch diameter x ¼ inch thick magnet CMS magnetically N52 disc neodymium magnet strength: 13.5 K Gauss and 45.5 lb. pull force (available online $9.78)
  • Felt 2 inch x 2 inch, about 1/16 inch thick

The hack is very simple: use nylon string to connect the already attached 6 white plastic tent pieces so the tent will stand up vertically against the sidewall of the RV…instead of creating the curved dome lying horizontally when attached to a bed. We like the white plastic pieces designed to grab the top bar of a crib or bed frame as they won’t scratch your vehicle when placed as a vertical curved tent. Then you hang it with a bungee cord from your vehicle through rings attached to the strings at the top.

DIY portable shower tent for RV

1. Build the tent following IKEA Assembly Instructions by inserting the included flexible tent poles into the sleeves. This leaves a stiff, flat, taut piece of nylon with 6 white plastic parts… 3 protruding from each side.

2. Turn it inside out so the fabric “ledge” is on the outside when it is curved for use, so it won’t collect water and soap.

3. Cut three strings, 4 feet long each.

4. Attach each string permanently on one side of the tent in a vertical position by knotting one end of the string to each of the 3 plastic parts on that side, as it stands up in a vertical position.

5. Form a big enough loop at the unattached end of each string so that it can easily slip over the white plastic part on the other side… with a 3 ft spread between the fixed end and the looped end!!

6. In an upright position, pull the tent around you to create the curved structure.

7. Attach each string’s looped end to the plastic piece at the same height on the other side. The 3 strings will lie flat against the side of the vehicle. The tent will dome out behind you to create a private space… but it will not stand well on its own. It should be hung up first.

8. Attach one last string 4 feet long through the fabric loop where the only upright pole inserts. Make it a permanently fixed attachment at the top of the upright pole. Turn your tent upside down if needed to knot the string around the insert end that gives you a wad of tent fabric already sewn strongly so you can loop through it.

9. Now, the very important rings… one ring hangs on the top string lying against the side of the van. One ring is tied to the end of the string in the top middle of the tent coming from the top of the upright pole. This should be tied temporarily about 3 ft.long as you will need to adjust it to alter the height of that side of the shower tent. (We have included a picture below of the top of the shower tent showing rings, top strings, and bungees in use).

Portable shower tent for our long RV trips

9. Run the bungee through both rings and put the hook ends on the RV. Our RV has a high ledge to hook to, but you may need a longer or shorter bungee depending on how high up you have to go to find a place on your RV to support the shower tent. Adjust the hang of the tent, higher or lower, by shortening or lengthening the top strings.

10. The hardware bracket for our particular shower head was available at RV parts stores.

11. We glued the specified magnet (ordered online) to the showerhead bracket using epoxy. We also used epoxy to glue the felt to the magnet so it wouldn’t scratch our RV’s paint.

12. We don’t have a recommendation for a floor mat for the outdoor shower as we would like it to be flexible for uneven surfaces, stay above the water and mud, be foldable for storage, and dry quickly. Any ideas?

Portable shower tent for our long RV trips

Our final advice: don’t shower naked in this tent in windy conditions… unless you’re an exhibitionist!

~ Sally of Zippity Go Global, Albany, California,

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Wednesday, July 25, 2018

Hackers Help: Hinge door into barn door?

I’ve seen tons of things regarding using sliding PAX doors for other purposes, but these doors are too wide for my space. I want to try to use one of the many other hinge doors for the PAX system that come in the 19.5″ width for a sliding barn door project.

I have searched the end of the internet and can’t seem to find any evidence of this being done before. Do you know if anyone has used the FORSAND, GRIMO, BERGSBO, or other door from the PAX system for this purpose? Does such a hack exist?

Thank you,
Nikki

***

Hi Nikki

The 19.5″ wide doors you have your eye on are hinge doors. Yes, they are slightly narrower than the range of PAX sliding doors. I’ve not seen them turned into barn doors yet but I reckon it would be using the IKEA hinge door the same way as any other store-bought door.

Hackers Help: Hinge door into barn door?

You can follow the steps in this hack and replace the hollow core door with the IKEA hinge doors. But the IKEA doors are made of fiberboard and are possibly heavier than hollow core doors. So do pay attention to the areas where the doors are secured to the hardware. You may need to reinforce them so they can hold the weight and prevent the fiberboard from giving way due to wear and tear.

Do share it with us when you successfully turn the IKEA hinge door into a barn door.

Good luck with the project.

Happy hacking,

Jules

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Ikea Hacking A Malm Into A Built-In Dresser

There will always be a special place in my heart for a good Ikea hack. Not that I’m dubbing this one especially involved (it’s actually wonderfully simple – which means anyone can do it). All it took were a few small tweaks to a basic $99 Malm dresser to make it look like a custom built-in at the beach house. And it has turned out to be the perfect thing for the funny little nook at the top of the back staircase in the beach house’s back bedroom.

rug / striped towel / leather hardware / gold mirror / bathroom table 

You’ve probably noticed that one of our favorite ways to hack Ikea pieces is to make them look more built-in. Our first project like this was using Pax wardrobes to create a sleeping nook (and more closet space) in our first home’s master bedroom. That just involved adding a header and some crown around the top of the wardrobe boxes and foregoing doors for curtains. Easy peasy. You can see them on the left in the picture below:

That photo on the right above is perhaps our most intense hack, where we used the now-discontinued Fjell dressers in our son’s bedroom to create floor-to-ceiling bookcases (the fact that Ikea no longer makes these is a tragedy because they’re great solid wood dressers). That was a bit more involved with molding, paint, filler pieces around the sides, and shelves – but still really doable. You can read all about the process here.

But back to our built-in dresser at the beach. I promised at the start of this post that this latest project was an extremely easy one. It basically boiled down to using trim pieces to make it look built-in, then adding a few customized elements – like leather hardware pulls and a thicker wood top – to make it a little more interesting and upgraded than the extremely ubiquitous dresser that we started with.

This is actually the main clothing storage for the back bedroom at the beach house (the one we stay in whenever we’re there) and it has been working out so well to have a dresser tucked back there now. Originally this room was completely open to the back staircase… meaning it was completely open to the kitchen downstairs (you could hear everything and anyone could run up without encountering a closed door).

It’s a huge upgrade to have actual doors that we can close before going to bed – and adding that wall with pocket doors not only provided some nice privacy, it also feels original to the house and doesn’t block any light from that window during the day (the doors remain open pretty much all the time except when we’re sleeping). We talked about it a little more in last week’s podcast, since it’s one of our FAVORITE decisions that we made in this whole house.

But adding that wall also created this nook, which we always figured would act somewhat like that room’s closet. At one point we were actually going to frame it in with a door and everything, but after living with it for a while we decided it might make this landing a little crowded and (since the stairs are narrow already) we preferred something that would keep the space feeling more open and less packed.

Lucky for us, the space was almost exactly the width of an Ikea Malm dresser. They’re a great budget dresser – only $99! – plus the flat fronts would nicely mimic the flat-front cabinets in our kitchen below. But to make it look like a built-in piece, we had to start by prying off all of the existing trim around the floor of that little nook. The Malm fit nicely wall-to-wall, but the added thickness of the baseboard and quarter round wouldn’t allow for us to slide in the dresser until we popped it off.

Once we had the dresser constructed and the molding popped off, we could then slide it into place, and we used some white filler pieces to fill in the gaps on either side (these were actually leftovers from the kitchen install – but a painted piece of 1 x 2″ board would do the trick). I just aligned them with the front edge of the dresser and fired my nail gun through the side of the dresser into them (and the wall behind them) to hold them there. There was still a little bit of gap, but nothing a little caulk didn’t fix later.

***NOTE: In addition to nailing through the sides of the dresser, we used the supplied hardware to anchor the back of the dresser to the wall. Like most dressers, the Malm is prone to tipping, so this is a vital step in installing a dresser like this***

You can also see in the photo above that I reinstalled the baseboard for that side filler piece to rest on (it extended just a bit behind the dresser on each side) but waited to add the quarter round until later. Also: that small piece across the front of the dresser is part of the Malm itself, so that isn’t something I added.

Once the baseboard was reinstalled and both sides were filled in, I cut the quarter-round molding and ran it around the dresser’s footprint – so it butted right against the dresser itself. Continuing the quarter-round along the front of the Malm is a big part of making it look built-in and a lot more seamless.

We actually hadn’t planned on adding the wood top originally, but when we got in installed the top was looking a little dinky. Fortunately, we had a scrap piece of butcher block counter leftover from the kitchen that was large enough. The walls aren’t perfectly square (thanks old house!) so we cut a piece of cardboard first to use as a template for cutting the counter. We only had one shot at this, so we took our time!

The result of all that slow double-checking and cardboard-templating was a perfect fit (huzzah!) so we let out a communal sigh of relief. It looks so much better with the thicker top, and the wood accent is a nice way to make it visually “belong” in this house (you know, with all the wood doors, pine floors, the matching counter downstairs, etc). If you don’t want to buy a whole span of butcher block from Ikea for this hack, you can buy smaller “project panels” or butcher block pieces at stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s (or you could just use wood planks for a similar look).

The other element that gave it a custom look are the leather pulls. We snagged these at Ikea when we picked up the Malm, and they’re $10 for a set of two. There are similar options on Etsy too (you can get these in a bunch of different leather colors), but really any kinda of hardware helps these plain jane Malms look a little more interesting.

My only tip for installing the hardware (besides measure, measure, measure!) is to take some effort to prevent splintering when you drill your holes. The white finish on Ikea pieces is quick to crack when drilled, and can easily flake off – sometimes in big chunks.

I wasn’t too worried about the front of the dresser because I knew the leather pulls would cover a lot of sins, so I simply used a piece of painter’s tape to drill through on the front side to discourage any splintering or cracking. But since the finish is more prone to flaking at your drill bit’s exit point than it’s entry point, and because there wasn’t much to hide damage on the backside of the drawer (it was just the screw head back there) I clamped a piece of scrap wood tightly to the inside of the drawer. It worked like a charm and I was grateful that I took the precaution.

And of course, the unsung hero of the project was caulk. We used it to blend all of the seams in the baseboard, plus any remaining gaps around the wall, which made the whole thing look a lot more polished.

We hung one of Sherry’s favorite mirrors above it because a mirror is always a good option for a small space, and the gold finish picked up the warm wood tones nicely. We don’t keep anything on top of the dresser because when we’re there for a quick stay, we just plop our suitcase on top and live out of it, but it has been really nice these last few weeks to actually unpack clothes into the drawers for our longer stays.

Also, if you’re like my dad and you live in constant fear of someone falling down these stairs (don’t worry – the only falling we’ve done on them is UP. Yes, both Sherry and I have tripped going up them, but it has only resulted in a stubbed toe or two), I wanted to show you this picture with me in it for scale. There is thankfully plenty of floor space behind the dresser to stand and comfortably get clothes out of an open drawer without worrying about taking a tumble backwards. In fact, I’d have to do a pretty epic backwards lunge if I wanted to get my foot over the overhang.

And again, if you’re interested in checking out some of our previous Ikea hacks, here are a few favorites:

And for other furniture hacks and DIY ideas, we have a whole category for ya. You can peruse all of those posts here.

P.S. If you’re looking for beach house paint colors info – or to find out where we got nearly all of the furniture, accessories, rugs, and other stuff in the beach house – this page has all of that info for you

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